TR4/4A Removing the Differential

[KVH]

I'm not seeing how I can do what the Manual says to remove the differential. Should it just slide out one side above the frame member? The passenger side has slightly more room due to the absence of a protruding brake clip on the driver's side. The manual talks of sliding the unit in one direction, then tilting the unit and coming under one frame side, then lowing the other side to remove. I can't do that. Not enough room, and my muffler pipes were welded. I'd apparently need to cut the pipe, but if I did cut the pipe, I seriously cannot see how that provides more maneuvering ability. Any ideas?

 

[Merlin63Tr4]

What TR are you working on?

M.

 

[KVH]

What TR are you working on?

M.

It's a 4A. But solid axle.

 

[Merlin63Tr4]

I did this on my '63 TR4 and the manual's procedure does work.
As you well know the TR4A frame and exhaust system are different than the TR4s, so partial removal of the exhaust system might be required.

If I remember correctly this is what I did on my ’63 TR4, I believe it follows the manual's procedure pretty closely (it’s been awhile since I did this).
Undo the driveshaft rear joint and stow driveshaft out of the way
Loosen the rear of the exhaust system at the rear hanger
Remove the brake drums
Undo and remove the parking brake linkage and cables from the rear axle
Remove brake shoes, springs, etc
Undo and remove brake lines and hose from rear axle and brake cylinders
Remove axle shafts, brake backing plates and shims (keep track of location and number of shims)
Undo the rear shock links (might have to remove shocks, don’t remember)
Undo and remove U bolts and distance pieces
Rotate the rear axle (gravity will do it for you) to a nose down attitude
Slide rear axle toward driver side (left side) until you are able to lower the passenger side (right side) axle tube under the right frame member.
Then slide the rear axle assembly towards the passenger side until you are able to lower the driver side axle tube under the left frame member.
Remove rear axle assembly from under vehicle.


M.

 

[KVH]

Thanks for the reply. While that sounds OK, my exhaust wouldn't move down much at all, and I couldn't see the manual method working. However, it did get it out.

It goes out over the passenger side frame member, above it, but you must rotate so the differential shaft faces the rear of the car. Came right out. What a load of goop, grease, grime and filth.

Now my decision is whether to just replace the leaking seal, or to take it to a diff shop for inspection. Any advice there? I have no reason to suspect problems, and I don't want a $500 bill for just looking, but I just bought the car and the diff gear lube looked like new. Suspicious since it also clearly was leaking.

Can I take the cover off, take a look inside, feel good about what I see, replace the seal and be happy, or is an inspection by a pro really needed now?

 

[Merlin63Tr4]

Was the diff making grinding or nasty noises?
If not I would just take off the rear cover to give things a good cleaning and a visual inspection
Look for hairline cracks at the root of the gear teeth, chipped teeth, etc
Replace the rear cover gasket, the leaky front pinion seal and call it a day.
Don't forget to inspect the pinion flange for excessive wear where the seal rides.

M.

 

[KVH]

Good advice. Thanks. I forgot about that flange. I understand a sleeve is made for that, just like for the front pulley.

 

[Merlin63Tr4]

Oh and don't forget to mark the pinion nut position and count the number of turns as you remove it to be able to return the pinion preload to it's setting.
Specially important if you have the collapsible type spacer to set the preload....

M.