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Removing Old Sealer?

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Aldwyn

Aldwyn

Jedi Warrior
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Hey guys,

I removed my bad water valve and the adapter it sat on (both took a hammer to get loose!) but the new ones don't want to go back in all the way. It appears as though there is a lot of old sealer tape in the threads.

I am afraid of having this trash enter the coolant line.

Is there a good way to get this stuff out of the threads?

Thanks!
Aldwyn
 
and or a small ninety degree pointy dental type pick turning it counter clockwise outward following in the thread groove.
 
Thanks, guys!

Retapping sounds scary... It's the engine block, after all! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif (and a large diameter hole).

I'll try and get out to get a dental pick this evening... makes perfect sense to use that.

BTW... what sort of re-sealent do you guys suggest? Bently's says hermetite sealer, but I cant find the stuff.
 
Put a bit of shaving cream into the hole and run a greased tap into the hole. Then vacuum out the stuff. The shaving cream will catch any bits that the grease does not catch.
This same trick works when tapping a spark plug hole in a cylinder head that you do not want to remove.
The shaving cream is quite harmless if you end up leaving a bit in the system.
 
Hi Aldwyn,

The other responses have given you some good suggestions about removing the old tape (Must say I'd never heard the shaving cream trick... can't wait to try it! Might have to go out and strip a spark plug just to see how it works! Well, okay, maybe not.)

Rather than using thread sealing tape (which is probably just Teflon plumber's tape), I'd suggest you look for Locktite Thread Sealant. It not only seals really well, it sort of lubricates the threads during installation and then sets to help prevent the fitting from loosening with vibrations. Plus you don't have to worry about excess shards of tape that might end up floating around inside the engine (or inside brake or fuel lines when working on those, which would be even worse). This stuff comes in little tubes. Many auto parts stores carry it, some hardware stores, too.

I'm not certain it's the same on TR6, but on TR2/3/4 those are tapered pipe thread fittings (either 3/8" UC or BPC, if I recall... the two are close enough to be interchangeable, anyway.) If it's the same on TR6, you'll need to get the right tapered tap or die to do the job right. The taper might also be the reason a fitting doesn't thread all the way in... It's not supposed to, if it's tapered pipe thread.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
When I was racing go karts I used Locktite on all my fastenings. It worked very well. I do remember that the threads had to be cleaned first. That was a long while back.
 
A tap will do the trick. Probably 3/8" NPT (national pipe thread), you can pick that up at any NAPA for about 5 bucks. The threads are rusty and should be cleaned with a good sharp tap. The ideas of shaving cream or grease are valid for trapping the gunk you will break loose. Just take your time.


Bill
 
Thanks for the reply guys... I didn't see the locktite suggestion until after I had the thing installed, though! (though I had thought about it beforehand... I wasn't sure I could use it on this). So the Teflon plumbers tape was what I ended up using.

As for cleaning it out, I went and got myself some of those O ring tools (dental picks!) and it worked like a charm!

Anyway, it's on... now I just need to put some more anti-freeze in, and flush out the air bubble in the sucker.

Thanks for the help, guys!
 
I sometimes find it neccesary to get the car on an uphill incline to get that bubble to burp completely out.
 
I'll see if I can find a parking lot on an incline someplace, and try and push it out there... oh, actually... my neighbors driveway is a pretty good incline. And he's the one who has a TR4, several Jags and a couple of Jensons, so I am sure he will understand. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Aldwyn,

Sorry, no pushin' needed I was thinking more along the lines of a floor jack. That's a real good neighbor to have! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Actually, I was joking on the pushing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I am sure I can run her a few miles with low coolant, anyway. I started her up yesterday to make sure water wouldnt drip/steam shoot out out of it, and she was fine.

Q: Should I refill the radiator with coolent before trying to get the air bubble out?
 
Air bubble problem only happened once to me. I usually go with the happy thoughts assumption that there will be no air bubble and fill it with a coolant mix down to -20 to -25 degrees F.
 
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