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Removing Crankshaft Pulley Nut

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BritSpit

BritSpit

Freshman Member
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This is my first post so go easy on me!

I'm trying to fix an oil leak from the front timing cover but I can't get the crankshaft pulley nut off. I have the required 1 13/16" socket and a good length of breaker bar but when I try to undo the nut the crank rotates instead of the nut undoing. I've got 4th gear engaged and the handbrake hard on so I can only think I am applying enough force to make the clutch slip. I'm applying most of my body weight to the end of a 3' long lever, so there's a lot of torque applied before it starts to slip.

Any suggestions on how I can lock the crank?

Cheers

Dave
 
I had the same problem and ended up using an electric impact wrench on it. Came off lickety split but I had to remove the radiator to make room for the wrench.
 
In lou of that...
Try a pipe extension on the socket handle and give it a couple of wacks at the end with a good heavy mallet. Works well most times.
 
Have been lucky on the ones I did and had access for the air impact or was able to break them loose with the ranny engaged and the brake on. Before I pulled the radiator I would try smacking the wrench with a hammer or putting a length of 1/4 inch rope in a spark plug hole and bringing that piston up towards TDC against the now bunched up rope. Make sure you're on a cylinder that the valves are closed on and use plenty of rope so the combustion chamber is full and the piston is far enough down so it won't pop over TDC. Good Luck, Dale
 
Never tried it but I have heard that you can put a breaker bar on, turn it until the bar is up against the frame and then turn the engine over with the starter.
I personally took it off with an impact wrench.
 
Another trick that "may" work is while you are applying torque to the nut, have a helper pour boiling water over it. Sometimes it is just enough to get the nut to let go!
 
Actually, I'm trying to get mine off, so I'd best ask:

What size is that dog bolt? Mine appears to be 30mm. 1 1/16 is too small. 1 1/8 is just too big. Can't imagine it's 1 and 3/32. The edges are a bit rounded (worry setting in).

Is it reverse threaded, or regular?

What a great Forum this is. Any subject. Answers here.
 
Hmmm,

Looks like I may need an impact wrench. Putting rope in the cylinder worked a treat to lock up the crank, but my breaker bar is now shaped like a banana! I tried some fairly vigarous hammering... no luck. I also gave it a blast with the heat gun with no joy.

I've got the battery on charge so I'll try the starter motor method tomorrow, I've had the starter pinion self destruct on me before though so I'm a bit nervous!

Thanks for your tips!

P.S. It's definitely a 1 13/16" (46mm) socket, I think there was a 1 1/16" one on the earlier cars...
 
I checked the bently manual and I see no reference of the size all it says is to remove special bolt securing fan extension. if you are trying to stop an oil leak up front I doubt is the timing cover gasket, most likely that front aluminum sealing block or the pan gasket. Mine leaks less when I replace the oil pan gasket. but I did replace timing cover gasket and the front seal.

good luck, BTW getting the timing cover back on and that spring tensioner on the timing chain is a PITA

Hondo
 
Re: What aboout that Tensioner ? Removing DogBolt

Is there a trick to that tensioner? How is it best installed?
 
Re: What aboout that Tensioner ? Removing DogBolt

I my impact wrench for the first time, a lot of clinking before it came off, on another car I bent and broke a breaker bar, but a large wrench hit with a hammer took it right off, most breaker bars have some flex, a large wrench doesn't.
 
Hopefully this is obvious, but JIC ... Spitfires are likely different in this area than TRactor motors. I'm not even sure the TR4A is the same as the TR3/A, since the fan and extension are different.

But they are right hand SAE threads in the end of the crank (on the TR2-4A motor), so the bolt head is likely SAE even on a TR4A. The TR2-3B crank dog is rounded on the corners too, apparently to fit into the hole in the fan.
 
70herald said:
Never tried it but I have heard that you can put a breaker bar on, turn it until the bar is up against the frame and then turn the engine over with the starter.
I personally took it off with an impact wrench.
Click to expand...

I actually just used this methode on my Volvo 1800 yesterday. No room for an impact without removing the engine, although I did try my air-ratchet first. Let it crank for about a second and that was it. I put an impact socket on the end of a breaker bar, and set the end of the bar against the floor. Worked like a charm.

Oh... and the Spitfire (at least the later engines) has a HUGE nut on the nose of the crank. On Jerseygirl's late model with the slant radiator, I had to remove the electric fan to get enough room for the socket and my 3/4" drive ratchet when rotating the engine to set the valves.
 
I had so much trouble getting the pulley off my 80 Spitifre, it would never have worked with any of the methods described here. I had the engine already out of the car. I had to wedge a 2x2 against the crank, lassoed the engine to a post and then used a large breaker bar on the nut. My impact wrenches apparently are too wimpy.
 
Re: What aboout that Tensioner ? Removing DogBolt

Hello:
Ditto on the wrench, not a socket.
I usually have a helper wedge a screwdriver, on the flywheel teeth, through the inspection cover.
That and a 36" breaker bar should do it with no damage.
Good luck, Emmett
 
Re: What aboout that Tensioner ? Removing DogBolt

I tried an air wrench. Didn't move.

I tried a socket, no luck at first.

I heated the bolt with a heat gun, then tried again with the air wrench. No luck.

I tried again with a socket (and breaker bar).

It finally came loose.

I didn't trust a ring wrench because I felt the rounded bolt edges would more likely get stripped with a ring wrench, especially if I hit it with a hammer.

I guess the rest of you folks are saying a ring wrench (closed end) is less likely to strip?
 
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