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Removing carpet from transmission tunnel

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nevets

nevets

Jedi Knight
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I need to replace my overdrive solenoid (no clicking sound when flipping OD toggle on with ignition swithed on in 4th gear), I assume that it will be necessary to remove the transmission tunnel, but first I need to remove the beautifully fitted carpet. Questions: How is the ashtray removed? What about the handbrake lever mount? the shift lever boot? Any suggestions / tips would be appreciated. Thanks
 
I need to replace my overdrive solenoid (no clicking sound when flipping OD toggle on with ignition swithed on in 4th gear),
I assume that it will be necessary to remove the transmission tunnel, but first I need to remove the beautifully fitted carpe--

WHY?? Generally the tunnel can be removed without removing the carpet.
 
Really!!?? That sounds like a lot less bother. so I guess I just lift the edge of the carpet enough to acceess the tunnel mounting screws/bolts? What about the handbrake lever?
 
How about sending power to the solenoid directly by a jumper wire to the appropriate terminal of the OD relay in the engine bay and listen for the click? Might save yourself some work if it is the switch or something else easy
 
Hadn't thought of checking the solenoid that way, thanks. My electrical knowledge is fairly limited.
 
Keoke, I see now that the handbrake lever is not mounted to the gearbox cover so should not be an issure for removal. I like your suggestion of removing the tunnel with carpet in place.
 
Is it a big deal to remove the carpet if it's not glued down? My car is being repaired so since it is already in the shop I asked my mechanic to lay down Dynamat on the tunnel to reduce transmission heat into the cockpit. Is this going to be a big job? I ask because my mechanic charges $90/hr.
 
You can definitely remove the tunnel without removing the carpet. Lift the carpet on the floor to access the screws holding it down. There will also be some screws on the front that secure it to the firewall, so you'll have to peel back the carpet there as well. It should lift off pretty easily at that point.

Keith
 
As mentioned, check the wire going to the relay first. It could be you just need to replace the OD switch mounted on the firewall, or even easier check the wiring for the OD switch itself behind the dash.

The E-brake handle will have to be unscrewed and laid flat, easy job. Makes removing the tunnel much easier. Of course you'll have to remove the passenger side seat first.

The rubber shifter seal just peals off the tunnel no need to remove it completely.
 
61TR3A said:
Is it a big deal to remove the carpet if it's not glued down? My car is being repaired so since it is already in the shop I asked my mechanic to lay down Dynamat on the tunnel to reduce transmission heat into the cockpit. Is this going to be a big job? I ask because my mechanic charges $90/hr.
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Gee, I know a guy around Parrish that only charges 2/3 your guy's rate...


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Johny thanks for the suggestion. Since the car is up on jack stands, I disconnected the solenoid wire from underneath and connected it to a new solenoid,which I bought to replace the one that I believe to be nonfunctioning. Still no action when flipping the OD switch with car in 4th & ignition on. So maybe the problem is not the solenoid? Maybe this is the moment to learn how to use a multimeter?

Regarding removal of the transmission cover...I removed all the screws holding the tunnel down (it's a new plastic unit, the car was restored just before I bought it) man o man, that puppy is really on there. I'm wondering if maybe it isn't glued down. If only the two solenoid screws were accessible from below, it migh be possible to remove it without having to take off the transmission cover.
 
Just to throw in my pennyworth, some cars have the tunnel covered with a two piece carpet system - one piece over the rear tunnel and the hand brake area and the other over the removable section of the tunnel - I like that system. The other more common system is to provide a one piece carpet from the back to the front and that would make the removal of the tunnel a tad tricky with carpet installed. I have this system on my BJ7 and I just peel back the carpet to clear the removable tunnel. I think that the original carpet was a two piece as I have found a BJ7 Healey in absolutley original spec but the condition is not so good, and that has a two piece tunnel carpet in it. When I get around to recarpeting the interior, I will be going for that system.



:cheers:

Bob
 
Randy Forbes said:
Gee, I know a guy around Parrish that only charges 2/3 your guy's rate...


View attachment 24673
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And my mechanic in Vermont charges only $50/hour and all he does is old British sports cars but same as in real estate, it's location, location, location. My Fort Myers mechanic is a 20-minute drive away whereas Parrish is 2+ hours from Sanibel. Thanks, anyway.
 
61TR3A said:
And my mechanic in Vermont charges only $50/hour and all he does is old British sports cars but same as in real estate, it's location, location, location. My Fort Myers mechanic is a 20-minute drive away whereas Parrish is 2+ hours from Sanibel. Thanks, anyway.
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Actually, being new to the area (7 mos) I was mixing up Sanibel (Island) with Siesta (Key), in which case you'd have only been 40 minutes away. I'll learn, eventually!

My first job as a "professional mechanic" was at a place in San Francisco called Austin-Healey West; Big Healeys were 95% of what I worked on (occasional Spridget, Bentley or RR would invariably come in on the end of a hook). Nowadays, I work 95% on BMW ///M Rdstrs & Coupes (1998 - 2002 models). It pays to specialise__thirty-five (35) years of continous Big Healey ownership, and one third (1/3) as long with the ///M Rdstrs, and I can say that these are a couple of models that I know a thing or two about ;)
 
Hey 61TR3A,
Putting Dynamat down is easy as can be ! If tunnel already off just pick it up and take home, grab a pair of heavy duty shears or utility knife and you are good to go. Just cut to fit, roll it on with something like a wall paper seam roller, and that is it. I would also recommend that you put in on underneath too. No such thing as too much heat control stuff in a Healey. Just don't put on the bottom side of the flat flange portion so easier to reinstall the tunnel.
Regards,
Mike

PS - I would highly recommend that guy laying underneath the dash in the earlier post !!!!!
 
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