Removing BJ8 Door Panels

[peteatgr]

I need to get inside my drivers side door to work on the window mechanism and door latch but can't seem to find any good pictures or diagrams on how to get the door and window handles off along with the panel itself. I'm pretty sure it can't be that hard, but I just can't seem to find the secret. I'm sure plenty of people have done it and will be able to offer some tips. Help.

 

[AndrewMawson]

Push the bezel round the window winder firmly inwards and a pin will be reveled that holds the handle on. Push it out with a pin punch, remove the handle & bezel, ease the trim panel off at the front and rear and bottom edges, then lift upwards off the door.

I can vouch that it IS possible and it CAN be done in a heavy downpour ( and I mean Irish rain - real wet stuff) when your window winder jams down when a gale is blowing <GGGGG>

 

[Keoke]

HI Peteatgr, The handles are retained on their posts by pins. If you press the escushions in you will see the pins.The pins can be pushed out to free the handles using a small diameter punch.Once the handles are removed.You need a flat tool to force the door clips out of the frame and the door panel will be free.There may be and should be a plastic or Vinyl membrane glued to the door frame,be sure and reinstall it before you put the panel back on.---Keoke

 

[Wana]

As is so often the case on this forum, this is a very timely topic for me. I am planning to rehabilitate my windows this winter and now know the secret for removing the panels. Now... any tips on what to look for once inside? Something rattles inside my doors and the windows are a little "loose" in their tracks, although both roll up and down fine, albeit with a little more effort than seems normal. Are there kits available for this operation, or do I just need to look around inside the doors and see if there are obvious loose or broken parts?

 

[Keoke]

HI Wana, Most of the windows have replaceable plastic glides that get worn over time. There are felt pieces that also wear along the top inline with the door rolls.The out side rubber scrappers also get hard and need replacing. If the window is tight going up and down it may be that the track needs very careful bending to match the taper of the glass,but cleaning the tracks and renewing the glides usually is adequate. At the bottom of the door is a rubber bumper that serves as a stop for the window that may have aged and also need replacing. Of course there are the usual fasteners that should be tested for tightness.---Fwiw--Keoke

 

[anthony7777]

wanna,i just did mine, you can remove the glass by itself to relace said nylon/plastic glides,or better yet remove all the inner door panel screws and you can then remove the vent window and the attached fwd.track,that way you will be able to bend the track slightly to conform to the curviture of the glass,as keoke mentioned,usually not the problem though,with worn glides the window becomes cocked in the frame and jams,usually replacing the nylon/plastic glides will correct the problem,nows the time to check if you need to replace the thick rubber seal that surrounds the vent window, i bought two today $18.00 each,also check if the rubber seal that runs along the fwd.part of the glass in the frame needs to be replaced,youll need to drill the two rivets remove the old seal,clean the track, replace the seal then replace the two rivets.for this seal i used a section of inner tube ,folded it around the front part of the glass,slid it back into the track and trimmed each side with a razor.all this might sound complicated but when you start doing it youll see this all makes sence,i hope. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[Wana]

Thanks much Keoke and Anthony! I may be back with questions this winter when I actually get started... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

 

[anthony7777]

wana,anytime,i just hope my memory holds out that long!!!!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif

 

[SargeVT]

Wana, Glad you asked that question. My drivers on my BJ8 won't open from the inside using the handle. Have to roll the window down and push the button on the outside handle. Now that I know how to get the panel off, I will do it and find out what the problem is. I wonder if others have had a door latch that didn't work from the inside?

 

[Keoke]

HI Sarge,Does the handle have resistance when you push it or is it all floppy.??Keoke

 

[peteatgr]

Hi Sarge, That is also one of my reasosns for wanting to get inside the door panel. My door andle works but takes great force to make it move forward. My impression is that some lubrication may take me a long way towards correcting this but while I'm inside the door It is on my list of things to investigate. If I get to it soon and learn something I'll get back to you here.

 

[Krcflyer]

Hi Sarge, That is also one of my reasosns for wanting to get inside the door panel. My door andle works but takes great force to make it move forward. My impression is that some lubrication may take me a long way towards correcting this but while I'm inside the door It is on my list of things to investigate. If I get to it soon and learn something I'll get back to you here.

Hi all, it's now a few years later and I'm wondering if there were conclusions, pictures, lessons from this project. I'm now going into the doors to fix a failed (pax side) and failing (driver's side) handle and lubricate the window mechanism. The fixing pins seem impossibly hidden, but I'm confident after reading this thread!

 

[AUSMHLY]

Beside making sure the window tracks and nylon guides are in good condition, a thorough cleaning of the window regulator will help a lot. Spray a degreaser into the window regulator gear to remove any gummed up dirt and hardened grease. Clean the regulator arm roller and the roller channel too. Apply grease when done. These things made a big improvement for me.

 

[Krcflyer]

So the door is apart and the door handle mechanism is unstuck, re-greased with graphite and grease and operates well. Waiting on the glazing to finish the window. Wondering if the window winder needs to come out to clean or de/re greasing can be done in place. Also, there seem to be several options for corrosion protection (I’ll try an Amsoil product) but no mention of a vapor barrier to seal the door. It would seem to be a benefit

 

[AUSMHLY]

Removing the widow regulator (window winder assembly) will allow better access to cleaning/greasing the gear.

It's a good idea to glue a sheet of plastic to the door to protect the door panel from water.

 

[Krcflyer]

Removing the widow regulator (window winder assembly) will allow better access to cleaning/greasing the gear.

It's a good idea to glue a sheet of plastic to the door to protect the door panel from water.

Good idea, thanks! Looking back at it, the regulator removal seems straight forward, and a thorough cleaning/greasing will no doubt help. I’m Waiting for the window glazing and dynamat, and looking for an appropriate vapor barrier/adhesive method. I saw some lexan film and an adhesive caulk that should do it. Pics as it goes back together should help the next guy. Meanwhile The door panel sits in need of an adhesive to hold the front edge to the metal frame—supposedly notorious for coming loose since it’s at an accute angle with no clips/rivets/fastening system

 

[AUSMHLY]

"I saw some lexan film and an adhesive caulk that should do it."

All you need is something waterproof, like a sheet of plastic, a thick garbage bag as example. Cut the plastic to shape and use some spray glue to adhere it. Don't need to glue the film to the entire door area, just the perimeter. Trust me, the door panel will be coming off more then you'd think down the road, so what ever one uses to attach the water barrier shouldn't be difficult to remove and replace.

A one foot square of sound reading material (Dynamat) on the inside center of the door skin (not the area where the plastic is glued) is enough to quiet the door and provide more of a thunk sound. Some prefer to Dynamat more of the door. I'm not sure it's worth it. I've been wrong before, but only once I think, lol.

 

[Krcflyer]

"I saw some lexan film and an adhesive caulk that should do it."

All you need is something waterproof, like a sheet of plastic, a thick garbage bag as example. Cut the plastic to shape and use some spray glue to adhere it. Don't need to glue the film to the entire door area, just the perimeter. Trust me, the door panel will be coming off more then you'd think down the road, so what ever one uses to attach the water barrier shouldn't be difficult to remove and replace.

A one foot square of sound reading material (Dynamat) on the inside center of the door skin (not the area where the plastic is glued) is enough to quiet the door and provide more of a thunk sound. Some prefer to Dynamat more of the door. I'm not sure it's worth it. I've been wrong before, but only once I think, lol.

Haha, brilliant! like the trash bag idea, the doors were done 13yrs ago, and have been w/o any plastic barrier (but haven’t seen rain, either), so this will be an improvement

 

[Krcflyer]

HI Wana, Most of the windows have replaceable plastic glides that get worn over time. There are felt pieces that also wear along the top inline with the door rolls.The out side rubber scrappers also get hard and need replacing. If the window is tight going up and down it may be that the track needs very careful bending to match the taper of the glass,but cleaning the tracks and renewing the glides usually is adequate. At the bottom of the door is a rubber bumper that serves as a stop for the window that may have aged and also need replacing. Of course there are the usual fasteners that should be tested for tightness.---Fwiw--Keoke

Looking for ideas on best way to lubricate the tracks( and mechanisms for that matter). Both had lots of dried stuff clogging proper operation. I know there're better lubricants than when the manual was published

 

[John Turney]

For something like that where you want a lubricant in an area that will see dirt and you don't want it to stick, I use a bicycle chain lubricant.