• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

remove door handle and window crank

Share this page

memphis

memphis

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Happy Holidays!

Ok, I am sure this has been asked (posted) many times, but I cant seem to get any "hits"....

How does the inner door handle come off? How does the window crank come off?

I am wanting to remove the door panel and make the window crank a bit easier.

Thanks!
Bob
 
Check your MOSS catalog, it has a nice photo of the parts assembly.
Briefly, there's a small pin that goes through the drilled door handle/window crank. You have to push in the door paneling hard enough to see the pin, it's helpful to have someone else push the pin out while you're holding the paneling in. The pin is only slightly more than 1/16" inch, I think. I have done this myself by using a wedge of some sort to hold the paneling in and then tapping the pin out.
 
Thanks Johnny!

I was able to remove the door handle. The trick is to also push back on the trim ring surround, as the inner lip of the trim ring prevents the pin from coming out.

What is the trick to removing the window crank? I cant see a pin? The plastic spacer is really causing an issue with pushing the panel in far enough. Do I need to push just on the panel, pulling the trim ring and spacer forward? Or push the panel and trim ring back and find the pin between those parts?

I have sort of tried all the above and am starting to slightly damage the trim ring. Don't want to go any farther until I understand the proper way to remove this puppy.

Many thanks!
Bob
 
I was able to finally get the window crank removed. I had to push back on the plastic ring spacer to see the pin. The spacer was very hard to to push back... Seems my plastic spacer was stuck in place due to the pointed end of the pin being partially driven into the one side of the spacer.
I ended up cracking the spacer, so will need to replace.

But, crank is now off!

Thanks for your help!
Bob
 
Hey Bob,
When you go to put the door handle and window crank back on use the idea from Moss Motors that I have used before.

Take a finishing nail the correct diameter to fit in the hole on the above pieces and saw almost all the way through at the same length as the original pin. This will allow you to use the longer length of the nail to get the "pin" into the holes and then you simple bend it to break it off and you are left with a pin that is hopefully inserted enough to go through the holes in the crank and handle as well as the hole on the shaft you are putting them onto. Hope this makes sense as sure makes it easier to put those things back on.

Regards,
Mike
 
Thanks Guys!

It does look like what I removed is a nail. Great idea.
I guess this was one of those jobs that required a "special tool" to be able to insert the original pin.
Bob
 
Putting those pins (or nails) back in is going to become one of the highlights of your Austin Healey experiences!! :yesnod:

Larry
 
longbridgehealey said:
Putting those pins (or nails) back in is going to become one of the highlights of your Austin Healey experiences!! :yesnod:

Larry
Click to expand...
I don't know, maybe I was doing something wrong, but I don't have any trouble with those at all...

In lieu of a nail, I use a pin-punch that is small enough to slide into the holes of the handle and stem.

I push the escutcheon back and insert the punch from the opposite side that I want to put the pin in from.

With the punch partially withdrawn, I can insert the pin (now <span style="font-style: italic">it's</span> holding back the spring-loaded trim ring) remove the punch and push the pin in the rest of the way.

That's also the essence of how I remove the handles. No drama, no cursing, just results :wink:
 
A pair of needle nose pliers helps remove once you have pushed enough of the pin through. I have a pair that has a 45 degree bend that works great.
This is one task that you will be preforming on a regular basis. While you have all that apart, you might consider gluing a moisture barrier (like a black trash bag)to the door before putting the panel back.
 
Larry [/quote] That's also the essence of how I remove the handles. No drama, no cursing, just results :wink: [/quote]

Oh that's just so wrong...
Your my new hero.
 
Hi Randy,
Yeah, it shouldn't be as hard as I made it. I think I made my interior door panels too thick when I redid them. That gave me a lot less leeway. One way or the other, they eventually go in.

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERYBODY!!!!!!! :banana:
 
Just another note to add to this....

The PO installed a nail that was longer than needed. This extra length caused an issue with removal.

I found another good option for a pin. Found an expansion pin at a local hardware store. It's a hollow pin with a slit down the entire length. I'll use my Dremmel to cut this to the proper length. I think this will work pretty well.

Regards,
Bob
 
What's all this talk about a correct pin.

Those who know me, know I strive for doing the job right and using the correct pieces, so I want to take a moment and make sure no one is standing while reading my post. OK, are you sitting down now? Don't want your legs to give out from under you.

Use a nail. Heck use a rusty nail. There I said it.

Use anything that's a tad smaller in diameter than the hole. Cut it to correct length, square or round the ends and put it in. It's not seen.

Who says I'm super annal. I'm so type B.

Of course when I put the nail in, I made sure I polished it to look like chrome first. Yup, there's the Roger we know so well...

Cheers,
Roger
 
AUSMHLY said:
What's all this talk about a correct pin.

Those who know me, know I strive for doing the job right and using the correct pieces, so I want to take a moment and make sure no one is standing while reading my post. OK, are you sitting down now? Don't want your legs to give out from under you.

Use a nail. Heck use a rusty nail. There I said it.

Use anything that's a tad smaller in diameter than the hole. Cut it to correct length, square or round the ends and put it in. It's not seen.

Who says I'm super annal. I'm so type B.

Of course when I put the nail in, I made sure I polished it to look like chrome first. Yup, there's the Roger we know so well...

Cheers,
Roger
Click to expand...
Uh-oh, it's inner secrets time...

... oh no, I'm not saying anything about me!

Nothing to see here, folks, let's move along.

While there's nothing wrong with using a split-pin, or a nail, I'll go on record as 99.9% sure that it was a solid, square-ended pin that was originally fitted. The ones I've removed were all consistent in size & shape. But who cars; you can't see it?! :wink:
 
tahoe healey said:
That is what is suppose to be there.
TH
Click to expand...

NOPE TH, it was just a nice fitting piece of a nail.---Keoke-- :laugh:
 
Back
Top