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General Tech Reinstalling TR4A Interior

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KVH

KVH

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I go through this every time. This time, though, my tunnel is that repro fiberglass thing, and I don't like it much. Anyway, my question is this. The console saddle is so tight and so impossible to force into place that I feel I need to trim some of the carpet underlayment (that jute stuff) away on the "hump" to lessen the thickness in that area. I'm reluctant to so any stretching or tooling to the aluminum saddle itself. What to other folks do? thx
 
I just cranked down on the bolts for the center console. I used 3ā€ fully threaded bolts. I checked the fit without carpet and there is space between transmission cover and console - I figure the carpet and jute will compress over time.

1) not sure if the fiberglass transmission cover has same dimensions as the one-piece poly cover I used.

2) I have read several folks have eliminated the jute - and some carpet also under the console. I donā€™t think this is a bad idea - but the gap in the carpet needs to line up with the final position of the center console.
 
Iā€™m now 40 straight hours into trying to install the console bracket. Iā€™m convinced either the prior owner did something with the dash (I see a tack weld) or my bracket or tunnel is defective. Jute or no jute, it just doesnā€™t fit. Iā€™ve done and said unspeakable things trying to install this without stripping the captive nuts.

I now know why the interior looked a bit rough when I bought the car. It was ā€œniceā€œ from a distance, but upfront I could see that a number of things have been left looser or not finished with regard to carpeting and the center console.

Like all however itā€™ll be done eventually; I just know there will be a lot of pressure on those bolts holding the center bracket. By the way, I called the best nut and bolt supplier in Tucson and was told that there is no such thing as a fully threaded quarter inch fine thread beyond 1 1/4 inches without going to a specialty store. Everything he has in inventory of that length or longer has a shank.

Did you find something else, or were you still dealing with relatively short bolts?
 
Does the console fit without any carpet - over the bare tunnel?

I fit mine to the floor first, then the dashboard. The dash is pretty flexible.

For bolts, I go to McMaster. Not the cheapest, but they have it in stock and youā€™ll get it tomorrow.

D593B552-607E-46A0-AF42-676F3477C3BD.png
 
I need to start using that place. Is it all online ordering with accounts?

I finally got that center bracket carpet and jute underlayment installed.

Iā€™ve done this procedure on several vehicles some, several times over and over again, and never had this kind of issue.

The only way I was able to finally achieve any success was by tilting the center bracket on a 45Ā° angle with the legs toward me and the top toward the dash, fitting the bracket under the dash support with the feet already sitting on the carpet and then using the bracket as a lever to push hard along the floor hoping that the carpet would slide with the bracket and end up roughly in place.

My end result was not perfect, but I have to live with it. In the end, I guess I have to say it was a lot of fun working on yet another Triumph.

BTW, I was then able to use just a 1.5 inch standard shanked bolt with washers.
 
I am trying to visualize your problem, but I have never owned a tr4. Anyways some thoughts I had. Are the tranny tunnels made out of fiberglass a one size fits all the Triumphs? Are tr3 and tr4 the same tunnel? When I find myself in a spot where things do not fit, I find myself more apt to modify the aftermarket stuff. When dealing with tight vinyl, i put Vaseline on the vinyl to help it slide.
steve
 
My center dash support (TR6) was a bear to refit and that was with the original tunnel and carpeting etc. the only thing that was new was the seal around the bottom of the tunnel (which was still pretty thin!). It took a lot of grunting and R-rated language but in the end my method was similar to yours and it went inā€¦
 
KVH said:
I need to start using that place. Is it all online ordering with accounts?
Click to expand...
Yep. I really canā€™t say enough good about McMaster. They have all the odds and ends for a project (car or otherwiseā€¦ need potting compound for your circuit board?)

Their website has won awards for its simplicity - and it has not changed in years. Their app is very similar.

The only downside is price, and for every order you pay ~10 shipping (ie more effective to place fewer bigger orders). But itā€™s in stock and at your doorstep tomorrow.

Ok, off my soapbox and back to carsā€¦šŸ˜€
 
charlie74 said:
My center dash support (TR6) was a bear to refit and that was with the original tunnel and carpeting etc. the only thing that was new was the seal around the bottom of the tunnel (which was still pretty thin!). It took a lot of grunting and R-rated language but in the end my method was similar to yours and it went inā€¦
Click to expand...
Yesā€”it was a near crazy experience. Total hours around 50 given all the attempted installs, machining of parts, straightening the dash. But how lucky we all are to have the time, the means, and the inclination to work on these great old cars as a hobby and to learn new things along the way.

I hate to admit it, but the clearances were so tight I had no choice but to tear out my brand new beautifully installed tunnel seal and opt to just caulk it. Whatever little space that was, I needed.
 
Oh gosh!! I just had a terrible thought. All that fighting with my dash center mount!! Was the problem self-inflicted? I had the car on jack stands and not on the wheels. Did that cause the clearances to change? I know the doors have issues when on stands, so maybe everything is affected.
 
If your jack stands were positioned in locations where the car would be supported normally by the suspension (ie, in line with the axles) then no, there should be no effect as it would be like the car was sitting on the groundā€¦
 
The front jacks were about ten inches to the rear of the front stub axles and the rear jacks were 14 inches forward of the live axle. Those are the points Iā€™ve always felt avoided conflict with the front spring plates/hub and the leaf springs. I rarely use the rear axle as a jack point due to the location of my brake lines but maybe that wouldā€™ve been better.
 
While you had it on stands in that way were you able to open and close the doors without extra effort? If so, then youā€™re probably ok. My center dash support was a bugger to get back in and my car was on the groundā€¦

Also, we have different models (mineā€™s a 6) so when I jack my car up at the rear I have a length of 2 X 4 on the jack pad that goes from one side of the t-shirt to the other so it is easy for me to get the stands in close to the axle locations.

another live axle owner might be able to help you more than Iā€¦
 
KVH said:
Oh gosh!! I just had a terrible thought. All that fighting with my dash center mount!! Was the problem self-inflicted? I had the car on jack stands and not on the wheels. Did that cause the clearances to change? I know the doors have issues when on stands, so maybe everything is affected.
Click to expand...

Iā€™d doubt that, unless the jack stands were near the center of the car - and that would be unstable.

The center console is a bugger. Makes one wonder how the factory did it on the assembly line.
 
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