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refilling the brake system

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J

jackag91

Jedi Warrior
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When I did all of the drivetrain work, I completely rebuilt the brake system. I finally got all 4 hubs and brakes back on the car. I tried refilling and bleeding the brake system last night.

1. I filled the master cylinder res
2. I opened on of the brake bleed valves
3. I pumped the brakes (with the engine off)
4. Nothing happened.

Am I missing a step?
 
No...unless "patience" is a step. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif On many cars, "bench bleeding" the master cylinder helps save time. Otherwise, and assuming all is well with the new and/or rebuilt components, it will simply take some time to fill the system before you can begin to bleed air out.

You might try just pumping away with reservoir filled and system closed until you begin to feel something; then start bleeding.
 
Andrew Mace said:
You might try just pumping away with reservoir filled and system closed until you begin to feel something; then start bleeding.
Click to expand...

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif Close all bleeders and pump away until you get some resistance. Start with the farthest cylinder and open it, go to the next farthest, etc. Then do it again until you've a firm pedal. Should take some time, but you'll get there.
 
Oh yeah - watch the master cylinder that the fluid level doesn't drop too low during the process. If so, you'll have to start all over, as you'll be pumping air into the system!
 
Okay,

Fill the reservoir, close all the bleeders, except the one farthest from the master, right rear usually. With some one pumping the pedal, put something on the bleeder nipple that can detect pressure change. A finger, etc. should feel slight pressure differnce.

Then close the bleeder screw, have the pedal pusher pump the pedal slowly 5-6 times, holding the pedal to the floor while you open the bleeder screw 1/2 revolution, tighten the bleeder screw up before they let the pedal up off of the floor. Repeat until you have fluid coming out of the screw, checking periodically to make sure you have fluid in the reservoir.
Then move on to the bleeder on the other axle, then come up front. Usually takes about 4-5 cycles each bleeder on a completely empty system.
 
jackag91 said:
Thanks, I guess I need close the valve.

Are the speedbleeders worth it?
Click to expand...

Never used them, myself. But that's not an endorsement one way or t'other. If you're careful to close the bleeder before your helper lets up on the pedal, as Ron points out, you shouldn't have any trouble with air entering back into the system.

This can be quite a "bonding" experience between you and your helper. PM me if you want details! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Mickey
 
Thanks for all of the help. I usally work on the car kind of late at night (9-11 pm) So I might try the speed bleeders.

Can someone let me know what the correct fitting size is? If you know off hand. I wanted to order them during business hours today.
 
Speed bleeders do work. I've used them in the past. Do one wheel at a time, and get a tube to fit over the bleeder into a jar so you're not shooting brake fluid all over.

The bleeder size on my TR3 is 3/8"-24, and should be the same for the TR4&6. I don't remember when Triumph started going metric with some of the brake stuff. The rear bleeder for the TR's should be the same size, but check to be sure.

EDIT: Most local parts stores have speed bleeders. This way you could match up the bleeder to be sure in case your car has metrics on there.
 
Andrew Mace said:
"bench bleeding" the master cylinder helps save time.
Click to expand...

I've found many times on Triumphs that bleeding the MC is a requirement, not just a time saver. The new seals just don't seal well until they get wet with fluid. (Of course one way around the problem is to wet the seals with fluid before assembling, but that step is often overlooked.)

Generally on the car, the problem can be addressed by loosening the outlet fitting(s) right at the MC; stuffing a rag underneath to catch the drippings, and doing a slow pump (or two) of the pedal to work fluid through the MC.

Then tighten the fittings and bleed as usual.

Some folks love the Speed bleeders, but since I've switched to DOT 5 I don't bleed brakes often enough to worry about.
 
Another thing to watch out for is the PDWA if you have one in the system. The valve will shift and close off the circuit if a bleed valve is open and the pedal is depressed too quickly. If you don't realize this has happened, you'll go nuts trying to figure it out (don't ask how I know). My suggestion is to pull the switch and keep an eye on the spool to see if it shifts. If it does, just lever it back with a small screwdriver.

Good luck!
Ron
71TR6- finally on the road after 3 years
 
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