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Recoring a radiator

roscoe

Jedi Knight
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In the last episode I had just reinstalled my radiator after fittng the hood. Put the coolant back in, all looked good. Decided to buff my dashpots and flasher relay cover because I knew that would make me happy and not take much time. Made the mistake of looking under the car when the dashpots and relay cover were instaled and looking shiny. Aw nuts. I believe I have a coolant leak on the side of the radiator somewhere. When I had it boiled out and checked by a local radiator shop he said it should be good for a couple of years. How was I to know it wouldn't be on the road by then. Has anyone had a BN2 or BN1 radiator recored? I remember a few posts about new core material, but haven't been able to find them, and I think they were in reference to 6 cylinder cars. Thanks.

Jon (as Roseanne Roseanneadanna used to say "it's always something")
 
Hi Jon,
you will undoubtedly get several opinions on the way to go. Most will agree that the original radiators are marginal for really hot weather.

Radiator type of construction & cooling ability involve a lot more than just the number of tube rows.

Tubes that are narrower but longer in the fore - aft plane cool better.

Tubes which are spaced more closely together provide more cooling surface than tubes that are more widely spaced.

Tubes can be placed in line or staggered.

Plate type fins provide less fin area exposed to the air flow than serpentine fins.

As an example for my BN2 radiator:
My 100-4 radiator core was 14H X 19 W x 2 3/4 thick & had five rows of widely spaced 1/2" tubes, 150 tubes total, with plate type fins spaced at 10 fins per inch. My replacement core is 14H x 19 W x 3 thick, has four rows of 48 more closely spaced but wider 5/8" tubes, 192 tubes total, with serpentine fins spaced at 14 fins per inch. This represents about 60% more tube area & 40% more fin area. The new core was made by TransPro.

One thing that folks don't realize ts that copper/brass radiator cores tend to lose their solder bonds between tubes & fins. This greatly reduces thermal conductivity & cooling. No amount of cleaning/flushing will restore the solder bonds & heat transfer ability.

A more dense core will require a better fan to move air through it. I use a Nock steel six blade flex fan.

The engine usually runs about 180 degrees on the thermostat. On long uphills in 100 plus degree temps, it may briefly go to 200 degrees. It has never approached boiling.

If you are unsure about a particular shop, check a few. I personally would look for a shop that is very familiar with custom radiators & with TransPro cores. The factory will custom make a core to yours & the shop's specifications & get it shipped in a few days. No extra charge for sizing it as you request.
D
 
Hi Roscoe,
British Car Specialists have a couple options. They have an aluminum radiator (which I thought was too expensive) and they sell up-rated core replacements on an exchange or outright sale. I bought the up-rated core, then sent mine to them in the box that the refurbished one arrived in. Mine was for a BJ8, but I’m sure they can handle all models.
 
Just take the radiator to an upscale radiator shop and tell them you want a four row serpentine core installed . Price about $300.00--Fwiw--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif

They musta seen you commin 7777's--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
keoke, i just got mine back had it done as you specified cost $425.00 musta been just a little more "upscale" a shop en yours. nope not in the car yet ill let all know how it works when installed. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
Once again, thanks for the info. I've already got the BCS stainless 6 blade fan.

Jon
 
Your radiator may be fine especially if your radiator shop cleaned and tested it. These radiators burp sometimes when the car is shut off hot. It runs down the side of the radiator and drips on the ground. Some people have put in coolant overflow reservoirs but not really necessary IMO. Doesn't happen all that often to me.
 
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