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Recoring a radiator in aluminum

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wkilleffer

wkilleffer

Jedi Knight
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Some of the woes I'm having with my MGB might stem from a dying radiator coupled with the hot summer we had.

Is the MGB's radiator originally cored with brass and copper? Looks like mine has some leaks.

There is a radiator shop not far from home that seems to specialize in aluminum cores. They did the core on my 1990 Olds wagon for less than $100.

Looks like new rads in all the catalogs are creeping up to the $300 range, so recoring looks more attractive. Is it possible or even a good idea to recore an MGB radiator in aluminum? Seems like it would cool more efficiently and be less prone to corrosive clogs.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
-Bill
 
Bill, how are they going to bond the aluminum to the brass tanks?
In my experience, aluminum cores are either welded to aluminum tanks, or crimp sealed to plastic tanks.
Enlighten me, please.
Jeff
 
I would also wonder about the two metals reacting. Aluminum is typically used to save weight but at a higher cost than copper.

I recently put a new 5-row core in my '67 BGT to replace the original 3-row that it came with. I've had no cooling problems, and it gets plenty hot here.
 
Bugeye58 said:
Bill, how are they going to bond the aluminum to the brass tanks?
In my experience, aluminum cores are either welded to aluminum tanks, or crimp sealed to plastic tanks.
Enlighten me, please.
Jeff
Click to expand...

My question to the board was to find out if it was even a good idea. I haven't asked the radiator shop if it could be done. There's probably no reason they can't recore as original. Alumninum seemed like a good idea, but I didn't think about the brass tanks.
 
Forget which one now, but one of the hotrod coolant specialty sites did a fairly lengthy treatise on coolant systems, aluminum versus brass-copper, etc.

Might do a google for it if you're really curious. It will answer all your questions.

Now, just my input, Brass and copper are better heat transferrers than plain aluminum, via an internal medium(coolant). You would be better served finding a shop that can recore yours with brass-copper and put in another row or two of cores.


I just had my 6(I know blasphemy, but what can I say) recored added another row and mounted an electric cooling fan for me. Hawaii price was 300, which is what I expected.
 
I'll either call or run by the radiator shop in the next couple of days and see what they have to say about a better-than-new brass/copper recore. They're not the only ones in town, so I may shop around a bit as well.
 
Bill, I've had several Spridget radiators recored with a 4 row core, and it generally runs about half the cost of a <u>good </u>new radiator, with a marked increase in cooling capability.
Jeff
 
Bill, your question is a good one that reoccurs on the forum, I know because I've been looking at the same problem. We all are curious about an aluminum core to a old tank, but for my money, I'd go aluminum rad. with an electric fan and forget about any future problems. It was explained to me that the aluminum is thinner, so it disipates heat better. New technoligy in the new cores have the vanes bent more so that the air is "held" on the vanes a little time longer even though the tube spacing is less dense and this allows the air to cool the fluid more. With a rebuilt core of more rows you run into several problems. Do you have room fo a thicker radiator. The BE doesn't. Then, you get an area that doesn't flow air through it as well and you don't solve your problem. I am getting the aluminum rad for myself after fighting this issue this summer. I would like to read the article mentioned above.
 
We had a very hot summer here, as did a good chunk of the country. I remember sitting in traffic a couple of times and watching the gauge needle move closer and closer to the H. I don't have supplemental fans, but plan to add them before next summer.

So, where are you getting your all-aluminum radiator? Cost restrictions may limit me to a brass/copper recore with or without extra rows, but I'm curious about the alternative.

Is there anyone out there who uses a radiator in a B that has extra rows added?
 
As I noted above, I installed a 5-row high-efficiency core in my GT this summer. So far no cooling problems at all.

The biggest advantage to aluminum is that it's lighter. Generally copper cores are considered better for cooling than aluminum, but core design is more important than material in some cases.
 
Steve_S said:
As I noted above, I installed a 5-row high-efficiency core in my GT this summer. So far no cooling problems at all.

The biggest advantage to aluminum is that it's lighter. Generally copper cores are considered better for cooling than aluminum, but core design is more important than material in some cases.
Click to expand...

Sorry, momentary illiteracy syndrome.

So your rad has a copper core, extra rows, and it fit right under the hood?
 
Sure did. One shop told me they couldn't fit a 5-row core. Another shop said they do it all the time, and their core fit beautifully.
 

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I've had my B rad "upgraded" as Steve has. Works well, I put an electric fan on front as a "pusher" and it only needs the "extra" help if in traffic in July high-noon conditions. In central Florida.
 
That looks sharp and is encouraging. You've got a different filler and overflow setup than I've seen before.

DrEntropy, pusher means that it's mounted on the side toward the engine compartment, and pushes air out through the rad, right?

Is it thermostatic or do you flip a switch?

Thanks,
-Bill
 
The radiator tanks and filler are stock '67. The overflow tank mounted on the right of the photo is from a Mark 2 car, which allows me to run a pressurized cooling system.

Remember, Southern California is not 72-degrees and sunny year round. It was 118-degrees at my house this summer even though I live 10 miles from the beach!
 
Pusher means it is in the front and pushes through into the engine space.
 
I have been calling around to my local shops, and I can only find one who will recore a radiator (makes me wonder what the other guys do). My 65 needs some work, so I figured I would get it re-done, along with getting the overflow re-soldered.

They tell me it should be about $150, but could be less since they have to see it.

I like the idea of adding a core. I am going to have them clean out my fuel tank as well. I just can't picture my tank sitting on my grill. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
jlaird said:
Pusher means it is in the front and pushes through into the engine space.
Click to expand...

Yup.

And it was originally on a switch (standard Lucas issue) where the O/D would be if it had one. Now there's a driving lights switch there. Converting to a thermo-switch mounted to the rad as it goes back into service.
 
I was thinking that when the shop has my radiator, I am going to ask if they can solder in a bung in the top tank that will accept a 1/2" pipe thread. This way, I could screw in a sender for a fan instead of pushing one through the fins or like the one I have that fits inside the upper hose.
 
I recommend you install the bung in the lower tank for the fan switch. Honda, VW, Toyota, Nissan, pretty much all use mostly the same type of switch, minor temperature activation-deactivation temperatures.
 
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