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Tips
Tips

Recommended fuel pressure

I'd put the filter before them. I have one at the tank, right in front of the electric pump that is back there, then I have one right after my regulator, but that's just the way it ended up working out, I probably should put it in front of the reg.
 
I've had a lot of problems with vapor bubbles forming in a fuel filter, obstructing flow, and eventually I just gave up. I have a filter ahead of the pump and that's it. No problems, so far.

If you keep the filter in the line, I'd put it ahead of the regulator, as you suggest.
 
Guys:

My fuel pump is under the hood. When I install my new pump should I reposition it back by the tank?

Mike
1958 Bugeye Sprite
 
Yes, by all means.
 
Be aware Holley makes two grades of regualtors, they look exactly he same, one is the low pressure unit for gas mizers, and the other unit is for big block V8, 4 barrel type folks.
 
by having your pump far from the tank you don't get any head pressure from the tank to help feed the pump. Also since there is some decent line length between your pump and the tank, the pump could cause cavitation because of the resistance of flow between the pump and tank (which is why you want to have some head pressure from the tank to help feed the pump to help avoid this issue).
 
I usually just lurk, but I will attest the Holley regulators are not fool proof. I've had good "round dial" regulators, heard the sad stories, switched to a Holley, only to have it poop out after two race seasons. Fortunately, my twin Facets don't push past the float valves and I've been able to plumb around it.
JohnD
 
I have found that all things being correct with either the weber DGV or the SU's That the facet low pressure pump works just fine with out the pressure regulator. It puts out 3.5 deadhead and provides more than enough fuel volume at delivery rate that more than you could posibley need.
Regulator is just another thing to leak fail and burn down your car.
I ran for 8 years with a low pressure facet pump 18,000 miles with a DGV and the last few months with twin HS2's (thanks Mike there great!) and had no delivery problems.
Soft mount them with some fuel tube to quite them down and it's all you need.
Just my experence
 
I will agree, Chris. The low pressure Facet has been on our MGB for a decade, no regulator.

My objection was to the shiny-pretty dial regulator. They're not much good for anything except a throwin' contest IMO.
 
My facet pump is also 3.5 PSI, same as the mechanical pump. This SHOULD be OK by itself, but in my case, it simply wasn't. New viton float valves, and messing with them to be sure they were free, didn't solve the problem. The regulator did.

You really only need 1-1.5 psi to get past obstructions, flow restriction in the line, and raise the fuel from the bottom of the tank to the carbs. So, even 3.5 psi is overdesigned.

Keep in mind, also, the spec on the Facet is such that it could be as high as 4.5 psi.
 
I've got a 1974 MGB GT with a Weber DGV on it. I've always used an aftermarket fuel pump that generated about 5 lbs of pressure with one of those round dial regulators. I can tell you that those regulators are junk so I just went to Summit today and picked up the Holley unit. With the round dial one, the Weber frequently loaded up on fuel and every once in awhile the floats were overwhelmed causing a nice trip to the side of the road. I definitely recommend the Holley regulator based on info I've gotten from people who use it.
 
on my list of jobs this weekend was the removal of my "disc" type fuel regulator & installation of the Holley 12-804 with a pressure gauge.

After finding a good mounting area on the inner fender & plumbing it up, I started the car & watched the pressure climb to 14 psi, I backed the pressure adjusting screw fully out & it didn't make a difference - obviously there is a problem as this reg is supposed to be 1-4 psi, so you should never see 14 or anything above 4...and then I overflowed the bowls on the carbs. I shut it down removed reg & bench tested with air (incoming set at 10 - 15 psi roughly), same results... I removed the cap & diaphram - no dirt & faulty parts evident... did notice that when the diaphram is installed it already opens the ball valve partially with no spring pressure, this doesn't seem right, almost like the nub on the diaphram is to long... who knows.

Any ideas ? Summit tech line isn't open on weekends, for now I have the disc type back in & working, just frustrating, thought someone has more experience with these units.

Thanks
 
Sure you hooked up the right ports? The Holley has one input port on the base, and two outputs, which are in line. If you hook the input to one of the in-line ports, and the output to the other, there's no regulation.
 
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