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MGC Recommendations for heavy rust removal [MGC]

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tony barnhill said:
I can get floors much cheaper than that - the rear of them will be the same as the MGC, just the front is different....if the rear of your floors is good just cut the front out & make a replacement panel from some metal.
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Thank you!

The weather is finally warming (& drying) up here so I suspect I will be getting under the car to start cleaning very soon.
(I can't afford to lay on my back under a car in the cold & damp, sick time is not a good time).

Once I determine what's salvageable and what's not I'll have to put together my list of parts I truly need. I've got years to work on this, as long as I'm physically and financially able.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]4. Buy flat stock (i.e. Eastwood) and fab the whole patch.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Scott,

That's probably what's going to fit the budget best.
I'll have to save money for the new fenders, hatch glass, rotors, master & slave cylinders, brakes, tires, any engine repairs, radiator work, chrome bits, paint prep, paint, etc etc etc...

What's "Eastwood"?
 
RickB said:
What's "Eastwood"?
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The Eastwood Company ... https://www.eastwoodco.com

The sell just about every tool/supply/gadget you'd ever need to restore you MGC, including sheet steel.

Your local auto body jobber will sell sheet steel too; probably cheaper. You want either 18 or 20 gauge (some may differ with that advice).

Also look at On Line Metals ... https://www.onlinemetals.com
 
Make it out of alum and never do it again.
 
Anyone familiar with POR-15?
They have a floor pan kit, looks good & they say it's hard & durable and prevents rust forever...

POR-15 floor pan kit

If that works as advertised it would be pretty nice.
 
Just go to a local machine shop & buy flat metal - aluminum like Jack said, if you can afford - steel if not....take of piece so they can see the thickness you need...no reason to pay Eastwood's premium price plus shipping if the local guy has it (that's where I get all my flat steel & aluminum)
 
Why shoot leave a lip and use some seam sealer stuff and some sheet metal screws, it will be there for ever.
 
jlaird said:
Why shoot leave a lip and use some seam sealer stuff and some sheet metal screws, it will be there for ever.
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I might fasten it with some screws to hold it in place while I weld it. Does that count? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Yes; I've used it for years.

It will stop/treat surface rust, but it is *no substitute* for steel/structural areas, despite the claims.

Forever is a long time....
 
I am set up to do some welding, I just like to know as many of my options as possible before I start working.

Now to get my 15 year old son out there operating the grinder... Hey, he wants to inherit this car someday! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Rick, My father (who taught me to weld) often asks if my welding has improved... my answer has been the same for years: "Nope, but my grinding skills have improved greatly".
 
I'd always heard/been taught that Al and Fe do not like each other... something about corrosion from dissimilar metals (or dissimilar rates of corrosion, or something).

Any truth to this, or is it just hype?
 
If you're talking about welding the two materials together I think it'd be more because of a large difference in melting points between the two metals. For example, getting a good weld with Al requires far less heat than Fe, so if you weld them together you may have a really good strong weld on the Al side but the Fe side would break off like it was held together with Elmer's glue. Conversely, if you got a good weld on the Fe side, it's very likely the Al side melted away to nothing.

As far as bolting or gluing the two together, I can't see why you wouldn't be able to.

For use in cooling systems, there's the chance of the two dissimilar metals creating a battery like effect, but I think the chances of that are low considering our engines are constructed of mostly Fe and our radiators are Al or Cu.
 
Reasonable quote from random place on the web. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

"Chemistry 101. Iron is 0.44 volts below hydrogen and aluminum is 1.7 volts under hydrogen, so galvanic dissolution begins in the presence of an electrolyte (anything other than distilled water !!!).

Anodizing the aluminum will help. Hard Coat will help more. Powder coat will help even more."
 
ah hah! so I can connect some leads to my radiator and my engine block and have an under bonnet light without draining the battery! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Nunyas said:
ah hah! so I can connect some leads to my radiator and my engine block and have an under bonnet light without draining the battery! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
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heh, if it was a low enough voltage / current light bulb and both of them were not grounded. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
dang! there's always a catch!

I'll not be foiled next time! muwahahah!
 
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