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Recommendation on Head Gasket?

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SteveHall64Healey

Jedi Trainee
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Gents, does anyone have a recommendation on a head gasket that is HIGHLY unlikely to never leak? I understand that there are head gaskets for BJ8 that are superior to the standard copper head gaskets from Moss or AheadForHealeys.
thanks
Steve
 
Check with Healey Surgeons.
 
When we rebuilt my BJ8's engine we just bought a 'conversion kit' from Moss. It was Payen(?) brand, and it's been fine for 100K miles. Unless you have a really 'built' engine they should be fine.
 
Yeah Payen:
I use to buy them from my local auto supply store they were a good product then.
 
Has anybody ever used Copper Coat spray on the head gasket?
 
Nope, but at Norman Nock's recommendation--and, I think, Roger Moment's as well--we put WellSeal on the standard, copper-faced Payen gasket in our BN2 and it's been fine for a few hundred miles.
 
vette said:
Has anybody ever used Copper Coat spray on the head gasket?
Click to expand...
I've used it on my engine rebuild but I don't have enough miles on it to say there's a difference. Guys in our local club having been using it quite regular and no problems. BTW: What ever happened to those great gaskets "Hall's"??
 
vette said:
Has anybody ever used Copper Coat spray on the head gasket?
Click to expand...

NO
But Coppa-Slip worked a treat.
Considered a hazardous material now.
Because it contains lead-
 
Don't know about all the others but I have used Copper Coat on about every type of gasket except the head gasket. It really works great, but I haven't had a need to replace a head gasket in awhile. I think it would work good on a head gasket because it is relatively thin and very sticky. I don't think it would blow out just help to seal any little imperfections. I believe it says on the can that it is intended for head gaskets.
 
I have used the aerosol copper-spray on some applications, and I don't see where it would hurt with the original configuration head gasket.

If anybody is making up multi-layer steel (MLS) hdgskts for our cars, then I believe the recommendation for them is that they be installed clean and dry. MLS type gaskets are beneficial when, for example, you're putting an aluminum head on a cast-iron block (though composite gaskets were used on the 10.5:1 C.R. S-52 BMW engine, they switched to MLS for the 11.5:1 S-54 engines). I usually switch to an MLS in (or cut-ring for high-boost) supercharged BMW engines.

A .050" solid copper spacer was required for my first turbo build, and the recommendation was to spray it with a light coat of copper, even though it was used in conjunction with an MLS head gasket.

crt_049.jpg
 
I took the advice of Norman Nock when I was installing my head during engine build. I used a stock gasket and was a little skeptical when he suggested using Irontite ceramic sealant in the fresh cooling system. I did end up using it and as leery as we all are of aftermarket additives I have to say the results have been very satisfactory. No coolant leaks ever (almost 6000 miles now). I refrain from driving when it is over 100 degrees out but on those occasions I have I have never had any cooling issues, even during the small amount of around town driving I do. Your mileage may vary but I think it is worth looking at.
 
I have used Payen head gaskets on my 3000 race motors for over 30 years. Never had a problem and I have never used any type of dressing. If you are running a high compression engine I would do a re-torque of the head bolts after a few heat cycles.
 
I don't mean to hijack the thread but this seems relevant. Is there an easy way to re-torque the head without removing the rocker assembly? Do the standard head gaskets from Moss and AH Spares have to be re torqued?

Dale
 
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