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Recommendation on Head Gasket?

SteveHall64Healey

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Gents, does anyone have a recommendation on a head gasket that is HIGHLY unlikely to never leak? I understand that there are head gaskets for BJ8 that are superior to the standard copper head gaskets from Moss or AheadForHealeys.
thanks
Steve
 

Keoke

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Check with Healey Surgeons.
 
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When we rebuilt my BJ8's engine we just bought a 'conversion kit' from Moss. It was Payen(?) brand, and it's been fine for 100K miles. Unless you have a really 'built' engine they should be fine.
 

Keoke

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Yeah Payen:
I use to buy them from my local auto supply store they were a good product then.
 

vette

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Has anybody ever used Copper Coat spray on the head gasket?
 
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Nope, but at Norman Nock's recommendation--and, I think, Roger Moment's as well--we put WellSeal on the standard, copper-faced Payen gasket in our BN2 and it's been fine for a few hundred miles.
 

Patrick67BJ8

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Has anybody ever used Copper Coat spray on the head gasket?
I've used it on my engine rebuild but I don't have enough miles on it to say there's a difference. Guys in our local club having been using it quite regular and no problems. BTW: What ever happened to those great gaskets "Hall's"??
 

Keoke

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Has anybody ever used Copper Coat spray on the head gasket?

NO
But Coppa-Slip worked a treat.
Considered a hazardous material now.
Because it contains lead-
 

vette

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Don't know about all the others but I have used Copper Coat on about every type of gasket except the head gasket. It really works great, but I haven't had a need to replace a head gasket in awhile. I think it would work good on a head gasket because it is relatively thin and very sticky. I don't think it would blow out just help to seal any little imperfections. I believe it says on the can that it is intended for head gaskets.
 
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I have used the aerosol copper-spray on some applications, and I don't see where it would hurt with the original configuration head gasket.

If anybody is making up multi-layer steel (MLS) hdgskts for our cars, then I believe the recommendation for them is that they be installed clean and dry. MLS type gaskets are beneficial when, for example, you're putting an aluminum head on a cast-iron block (though composite gaskets were used on the 10.5:1 C.R. S-52 BMW engine, they switched to MLS for the 11.5:1 S-54 engines). I usually switch to an MLS in (or cut-ring for high-boost) supercharged BMW engines.

A .050" solid copper spacer was required for my first turbo build, and the recommendation was to spray it with a light coat of copper, even though it was used in conjunction with an MLS head gasket.

crt_049.jpg
 

roscoe

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I took the advice of Norman Nock when I was installing my head during engine build. I used a stock gasket and was a little skeptical when he suggested using Irontite ceramic sealant in the fresh cooling system. I did end up using it and as leery as we all are of aftermarket additives I have to say the results have been very satisfactory. No coolant leaks ever (almost 6000 miles now). I refrain from driving when it is over 100 degrees out but on those occasions I have I have never had any cooling issues, even during the small amount of around town driving I do. Your mileage may vary but I think it is worth looking at.
 

BoyRacer

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I have used Payen head gaskets on my 3000 race motors for over 30 years. Never had a problem and I have never used any type of dressing. If you are running a high compression engine I would do a re-torque of the head bolts after a few heat cycles.
 

RestoreThemAll

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I don't mean to hijack the thread but this seems relevant. Is there an easy way to re-torque the head without removing the rocker assembly? Do the standard head gaskets from Moss and AH Spares have to be re torqued?

Dale
 
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