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Rebuilding the Dip Switch

steveg

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My old one died last year; my new one died this year - will see how long the rebuild lasts.
Picture story: https://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/dimmerswitchfix

DipSwitchRebuilt.jpg
 
I salute you for taking the time to fix something that anybody who helped design probably would have said "when it breaks (and it will) they'll be cheap and people will replace them". I will always spend a dollar to save a dime if I can. Makes you feel like you've outwitted the engineers. Thanks for the pictures. May your headlamps always dim when necessary....
 
I salute you for taking the time to fix something that anybody who helped design probably would have said "when it breaks (and it will) they'll be cheap and people will replace them". I will always spend a dollar to save a dime if I can. Makes you feel like you've outwitted the engineers. Thanks for the pictures. May your headlamps always dim when necessary....

Buying a new one wouldn't necessarily solve the problem: It failed too quickly due a design weakness where the post is riveted to the cup. I'm hoping this one will last indefinitely.
 
Steve,

Good show. Jon, I very seldom look to replace if at all possible for 2 major reasons:
1. Today's parts are commonly not produced with quality and, as Steve new piece showed, will not have good longevity.
2. A failing part is my signal to dismantle, see how it works internally, and what it will take to FIX.

The second point is an integral part of my interest and what keeps my Healey active in my mind. Additionally, I have found most original electrical parts are not hermetically sealed and can often be fixed (even on the side of the road).

As an example, In 1965, while driving my Healey on a dark night through Pennsylvania's Pike County Reserve on my way to visit my girlfriend (later my wife), my headlights and connected driving lights suddenly went DARK. Faced with a total loss of lamination on a deep forest 2-lane roadway (1 lane in each direction), I pulled the car onto the shoulder, turned off the battery switch, retrieved my flashlight (torch) from the glove box, and began to look for the issue. Although disconcerting, I quickly found the innards (springs and mechanisms) of my light switch scattered on the passenger floor with the back dangling from the wires and the toggle still in the dash. After removing the rest of the switch from the dash and with my flashlight propped, I reinstalled the springs and internal components back into the switch, pressed the back on and installing a little tape for added support. I then refitted the switch back into the dash and connected the wires. After turning the battery switch back on, I started the car and flipped on the headlights and was back on my way. All this took less then 15 minutes and the fix lasted at least 15+ years before cleaning all switches and apply dielectric grease as part of a redo of my Healey (completed in 1989). This same switch is still in my dash today although I have installed a number of relays to diminish the level of power it and the original wiring are required to handle.

Jon, I enjoy this Forum and our discussions as all participants seem to posses and present creative and ingenious approaches toward the resolution of non-unique issues. Don't misunderstand, I believe we all will Purchase when we can't fix but first try.

My thoughts.
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
A similar experience here. Recently, the outer sleeve came loose from the dimmer switch, after the rivet/expanded metal let the sleeve slide past. After further disassembly, I drilled a hole in the end of the stem and used a self-tapping screw (maybe with a small washer and a drop of JB Weld - can't say for sure). Anyway, it seems stronger and less likely to fail than the original assembly method.
 
Did you add headlight relays? With lowered current going through the switch it should last a lot longer (that is what I did after I rebuilt mine)
BillM
 
Did you add headlight relays? With lowered current going through the switch it should last a lot longer (that is what I did after I rebuilt mine)
BillM

I have headlight relays. The problem for me was that the rivet failed, not electrical failure. The copper contacts inside the switch are completely clean.
 
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