• Hi Guest! Being a Paying Supporter is NOT a requirement to participate at BCF. However, subscribing will help ensure we can continue to serve the LBC community for years to come. If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource...Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)
Tips
Tips

Rebuilding roadster windshield

Jack T

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
If you're using your original glass, you may find that the new glazing material is too thick, making it next to impossible to set the glass in the frame. I ended up going to a local auto glass shop and they had thinner glazing material.

Use the glass and frame assembly to position the posts before installing the scuttle seal in the frame. Shim the posts and tighten them in place, then install the scuttle seal and install the glass and frame. That way you know you're not twisting the glass.

Good luck.
 
Country flag
Offline
Plan on buying the new corner bracket set, if you have not already done so.

It's a tedious job, but immanently doable; being in the right frame of mind, and if you find it necessary, WALK AWAY, and return when you're up to it.

Here's a link to some pictures I took when doing mine__I'd had the frame rechromed, new glass & all rubber. I was somewhat amazed by how hard you could influence the frame & rubber into compliance with a rawhide mallet...

http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/index.php?/category/105

Teaser pic

ws_007.jpg
 
OP
steveg

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Plan on buying the new corner bracket set, if you have not already done so...

Randy, thank you for the link to pix - very helpful.

I found these (Moss from AHspares) do not fit; neither does the filler strip:

screenshot.2068.jpg


Drilled & re-tapped existing corner brackets. Screws are 6-40

805_060.jpg
682_027.jpg


Edit: was able to find SS socket flathead 6-40 screws on eBay and 1/4" X 3/16" adhesive-backed rubber stripping at Grainger.
 
Last edited:

blueskies

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Hope it goes well for you. We did this on the 100-6 earlier this winter, so the memories of the experience are quite fresh. The glass that we used came from a seller in the US and appeared to be an original piece in quite good condition. The old glass in the frame was badly cracked, but it still had the sealing strips in place to show us how it should be done. The new glass was a little smaller than I would have liked (1/2" or so in each dimension), so it did not fit as far into the frame as a somewhat larger piece would have. We reused the rubber spacer strips that seat in the channels; they were still in good condition. The original seal around the glass was very thin, and the glazing rubber from the local glass shop proved too thick to use. What did work was a roll of that black rubber tape that one uses to stop leaks. That tape is sticky on both sides, and if that is a problem, one could put a layer of thin black electrical tape over it so that it slides into the channel without sticking.

We had a couple of old frames to pick the best corner brackets from. A number of the screw holes had to be drilled out and retapped. We also found enough of the tiny little screws to reuse. Certainly, replacement new brackets and screws would have saved time. But they were weeks away in either California or Britain, as are most parts that we have to order. A couple more hours of careful work sufficed to salvage the screws and brackets.

The scuttle seal also proved difficult to install, because it had deformed in the package and also because it could have been closer to the desired profile. It wanted to pop out of the channel when placed on the car. A little heat and temporary tape to hold it in place helped.

In spite of the challenges, the finished job looks fine. As with most things on these cars, every little step proves interesting.
 
Country flag
Online
Yuc yuc yuc to Randy's play on words: "being in the right frame of mind"
 
Country flag
Offline
Yuc yuc yuc to Randy's play on words: "being in the right frame of mind"
:devilgrin:

It's definitely not a task you should attempt after talking to a divorce lawyer, the IRS or an insurance agent handling your claim.

At least for me, the exact right moment had to present itself (note the sizable gap__1 yr/4 mos__between taking it apart for replating and the courage to reassemble...) before I would even attempt handling a piece of safety glass and "new chrome," not to mention beating it into submission with a rawhide mallet!
 

John Turney

Yoda
Silver
Country flag
Online
Randy, thank you for the link to pix - very helpful.

I found these (Moss from AHspares) do not fit; neither does the filler strip:



Drilled & re-tapped existing corner brackets. Screws are 6-40



Edit: was able to find SS socket flathead 6-40 screws on eBay and 1/4" X 3/16" adhesive-backed rubber stripping at Grainger.

The ones I got from Moss didn't fit either. I was able to reuse the old ones. I was using new glass, so the sealing rubber fit.
 

Drone Dog

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Steve
i believe i found a video on it from u-tube. maybe the matthew guy from Australia.

my new corner brackets did not fit at the top. bottoms were ok. the video had said not to throw the old ones away. good i followed that advice. i used new glass. the new glass and seal went in pretty well with some taping. the seal was wide so i did not worry so much about keeping it exactly straight. when i was done, i took an 1/8" pc of steel and put it against the frame. then put my knife on the other side. slid it all the way around on both sides and left an even amount of rubber.

not a bad job just a little bulky.
 

nevets

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Informative thread. I have contemplated replacing the glass on my BN6, which although not cracked, it is not perfectly clear anymore due to discoloration and flaws in the safety layer. Wondering if it's possible to send it out to a specialist for glass replacement?
 
OP
steveg

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Informative thread. I have contemplated replacing the glass on my BN6, which although not cracked, it is not perfectly clear anymore due to discoloration and flaws in the safety layer. Wondering if it's possible to send it out to a specialist for glass replacement?

My original glass, which is currently out sitting in my living room, is .23" thick. The cheaper Moss replacement is closer to 3/16". Today a friend and I picked up one of the more expensive ones at Moss. It's about 1/4". I'd only consider that one.
 

Drone Dog

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Steve
one thing when you put it back in.

the seal that goes down to the body:
i kind of jammed mine up in there before i cut it off figuring it would shrink over time. it seems i ran in to that before on another car. BUT, this one has not drawn up. if it has, it is very little. So i still have some ripples at the end on the curved part. Maybe someone has a better system on here.
 
OP
steveg

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Replacement for Moss Filler Strip PN 682-027 which did not fit per pic above:

Grainger PN 497L42 Rubber strip, 3/16" Thickness, 1/4" wide, adhesive backing, Length 10ft.
Also available cheaper without adhesive backing.

screenshot.2071.jpg
 
OP
steveg

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Randy,
Referring to your picture:
1) Did you miter-cut the rubber seal at the corners of the glass, or was the seal stretchy enough to just force the frames onto the glass over it and have it wrap around the corners without any cutting?*

*Edit - never mind, I see above you didn't miter it. I should read more carefully.

2) The part you're holding away from the glass - what did you use to cut it next to the frame.

screenshot.2072forbes.jpg
 
Last edited:

Drone Dog

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Steve
my memory sucks but as i recall i stretched the rubber over the corners pretty easily. the glass corners are not real sharp.

on the rubber:
one reason i cut it back to an 1/8" reveal, i had less of a bubble of the rubber at the corners. either way if you cut the rubber at the highest point (see Randy pic above) to the metal; let one piece lay over the other and run your knife thru both pcs at one time. run it from the frame corner out to the the inside point where the rubber overlaps. pick out the loose pcs and you will have a perfectly fitting miter. i used a dab of clear silicone at the corner.

hope that is what you were asking
 
OP
steveg

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Steve
my memory sucks but as i recall i stretched the rubber over the corners pretty easily. the glass corners are not real sharp.

on the rubber:
one reason i cut it back to an 1/8" reveal, i had less of a bubble of the rubber at the corners. either way if you cut the rubber at the highest point (see Randy pic above) to the metal; let one piece lay over the other and run your knife thru both pcs at one time. run it from the frame corner out to the the inside point where the rubber overlaps. pick out the loose pcs and you will have a perfectly fitting miter. i used a dab of clear silicone at the corner.

hope that is what you were asking

OK, DD, I now understand that you mitered the corners. Not just squishing the corner seal in place with the metal frames.
It appears Randy squished the continuous strip in the corners with the metal frame pieces.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
K TR2/3/3A Rebuilding an Engine?..New Cam Sprocket & Gear...1/2 Price Triumph 0
drooartz Rebuilding rear axle Spridgets 10
T Rebuilding a 1275 for a BE Spridgets 8
pkmh Rebuilding Armstrong Lever Shocks on a BJ8 Austin Healey 28
steveg Steering rocker shaft - chemical rebuilding Austin Healey 3
A Rebuilding Tiger window regulator question Sunbeam (Rootes) 3
S TR2/3/3A Rebuilding Dr2 Lucas wiper motor Triumph 16
S TR2/3/3A rebuilding bomb nose starter Triumph 9
W Looking for engine rebuilding 100-6 Austin Healey 12
KVH General Tech Rebuilding the Engine--a few practice pointers [for me] Triumph 11
R TR2/3/3A Rebuilding H4 carbs Triumph 8
S TR2/3/3A rebuilding door panels Triumph 15
Rut TR4/4A Seat rebuilding Triumph 3
steveg Rebuilding the Dip Switch Austin Healey 9
Tinkerman TR2/3/3A Rebuilding SU carbs 1960 TR3A Triumph 3
Rut TR4/4A Seat rebuilding Triumph 6
CZ_Dave MGB Is it worth doing the Shock Conversion Kit or Rebuilding Exsisting shocks? MG 16
JFeher TR2/3/3A Rebuilding A type OD I Need advise / measurements Triumph 14
KVH TR4/4A Engine rebuilding Triumph 17
gbtr6 TR6 Rebuilding TR6 Engine, Tips? Triumph 7
pbraun Anyone have a 1275 core for rebuilding? Spridgets 8
Got_All_4 TR2/3/3A Continually Rebuilding of my J Type Gear Box Triumph 2
drooartz MGB-GT Rebuilding the seats MG 28
Gray_Cat MGB Rebuilding MGB Overdrive MG 4
S TR2/3/3A rebuilding a tr3 water pump Triumph 20
Lin Rebuilding a master cylinder for BT7 Austin Healey 3
PatGalvin TR2/3/3A Guide for SU Rebuilding Triumph 8
H TR4/4A 4A convertible top rebuilding sequence Triumph 8
sim Rebuilding Front Suspension 58 sprite spring question Spridgets 6
Lukens TR2/3/3A More questions about rebuilding my steering box Triumph 20
C TR4/4A Hs6 carb rebuilding Triumph 8
S TR2/3/3A Transmission Rebuilding Triumph 29
L 1966 BJ8 frame rebuilding questions Austin Healey 1
djackson Rebuilding 100/6 Transmission Austin Healey 6
bighealeysource Rebuilding BN2 generator Austin Healey 5
Xte Rev counter rebuilding ... Austin Healey 2
J TR6 rebuilding tr6 rear hubs Triumph 13
H head rebuilding mods Austin Healey 15
JFeher TR2/3/3A TR3 Type "A" front brake caliper rebuilding Triumph 17
SilentUnicorn Floor jack rebuilding Restoration & Tools 18
rkep01 How to tell if lever shocks need rebuilding? Spridgets 3
M Healey Air Filter Rebuilding Austin Healey 1
hondo402000 Weber Carburator rebuilding DCOE Triumph 14
glemon Rebuilding stromberg Carbs Throttle Shaft Bushings Triumph 6
I Hyraulics rebuilding questions Triumph 2
smaceng Rebuilding side curtains Spridgets 3
I PDWA switch rebuilding help Triumph 12
N TR2/3/3A TR3 Gauge Rebuilding Triumph 6
S Question on rebuilding Stromberg carb Triumph 24
D Rebuilding the SU HD8 carbs Austin Healey 24

Similar threads

Top