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Rebuild of LCS SU Fuel Pump

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R

rfitts

Freshman Member
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Removed fuel pump. Have removed one of the covers on the aluminum case revealing the brass screen filter. Have one more screw to get out on the other cover.

Have removed the coil from the aluminum case.

Question 1: How do you measure the diaphragm? There are two sizes for the LCS, ø3.00" and ø2.375". The diaphragm I have measures close to 3.00" to the outside edge.

Question 2: After removal of the rubber band seal, sealing the bakelite cap and the coil body, how does the bakelite cap come off?

Question 3: Is there a best place to go to get parts or a rebuild kit? I am aware of Moss Motors and Victoria British.

Bob
 
well into disassembly. Planning on 3" LCS SU rebuild kit from VictoriaBritish. Please review attached photos. Bob
LSC%20LONG%20BODY%20COIL%20IMAGE%202.JPG

LSC%20LONG%20BODY%20COIL%20IMAGE%204%20.JPG

LSC%20LONG%20BODY%20COIL%20IMAGE%205.JPG

LSC%20LONG%20BODY%20COIL%20IMAGE%206.JPG
 
That's the same value capacitor you'd find for a tone control in a Les Paul guitar. Just in case you need to get a new one... :laugh:
 
Hello,

I would like to sound a note of warning!!
I have the same type of fuel pump in my car. If I discuss with a local very competent british car specialist(Healey triumph and jaguar, it is not a part dealer) he see my pump. He said to me: Oh no, please change this old type in a modern new one, because he know two guys there cars are completly burn down...because of leaky and the spark contacts design. I like also the original design, but for safety reasons,I leave this way.
I know my english sounds not so professional, but please think about my words..
Michael- who restore a BT7
 
Michael -

Your English is just fine! Yes, what you say is true, if your car is not well maintained and you have fuel leaking from the pump unions, this can be a serious danger. Thank you for reminding us of this major issue.

Best Regards,

Alan
 
By the way, SU Burlen in the UK sells an electronic conversion kit (i.e. pointless or diode based) for negative ground for only about 37 pounds sterling.
 
thanks for all the input....had not given much thought to the gas/points combination...good heads up. I will replace points since they come with rebuild kit....but sure would like to be able to find point conversion kit here in the US. I called Victoria British they dont carry it. Will post images as rebuild moves along. Bob
 
any rebuilders out there. rebuild kit had a different style set of points then the ones removed. The kit had none adjustable and the original are adjustable. The points I have are in very good shape and are superior in quality then the replacements in kit. I have no choice but to use them. Now the 2-3/8" replacement diaphragm is a single layer diaphragm and uses plastic support spacers where the one removed was double layered and used steel support spacers. The replacement diaphragm seems to fit nice. I have a question on a paper gasket delivered as part of the kit. Should it go between the diaphragm and coil? It seems to be the logical place for it. I will post pictures soon. Bob
 
Bob - I am answering your e-mail on here since I see some misconceptions in the answers. First of all, I am sorry that I couldn't have written to you before you purchased the repair kit, I could have saved you some money. The pump you have is a Harting, not SU. The Harting is a German clone of the SU pump and perhaps a better pump than the SU, but there are no repair parts available for them. The diaphragms for a SU pump will sometimes work in the Harting, but most of the time they won't. As for the centering disks (brass) vs the newer plastic types, they both work equally well unless the old brass disks have worn enough to allow the armature of th ediaphragm to rub against the side of the coil housing.

On the subject of diaphragms, the measurement quoted in the Moss and V/B catalogs refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the diaphragm. From the looks of the electrical end of the pump, I would suspect that there was some seepage from the diaphragm and the fumes got into the area of the points. There is very little danger of fire from this situation because in such cases, the atmosphere inside the end cover is way too rich to burn, but you do get a lot of soot just the same.

The points for a SU pump and a Harting pump are completely different and the points set for a SU pump will not work in a Harting pump. I have seen some Hartings where someone has replaced the original, horse shoe shaped pedestal with a SU pedestal and used SU points, but since I always see these pumps when they are not working, I can't say if that is a viable fix. I don't try any more to repair/restore these pumps for the simple reason that I can't get repair parts for them

The LCS pump was originally brought out by SU as a high capacity pump as compared to the original high pressure pumps (15 GPH as opposed to 8 GPH). they were later replaced with the AUF 300/AZX 1300 series pumps, as used on MGBs (which are rated at 18 GPH).

I would recommend that you replace the pump that you have with either a new LCS pump (available from V/B) or one of the AZX 1300 series pumps (also available from V/B). Both pumps are also available from Burlen Fuel Systems in England https://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ Even with the shipping cost, you can usually get the pump cheaper from BFS than any of the suppliers here in the states and it only takes about 10 days for the pump to arrive. I would also recommend, if you don't drive your car regularly, that you go for the all electronic version of the pump as it doesn't have points in it to film over during periods of disuse and cause the pump to quit running.

If you have any more questions, e-mail me (since I only get over to this forum when I am directed here by an e-mail) and I will try to answer them for you.
Cheers,
 
Dave this is somewhat disappointing news since I already have $140.00 into the rebuild kit and obviously I was rebuilding because I didn’t want to buy a new pump. This is a hobby not a restoration I have one child in college. I kept looking at the yellow sticker that says Harting...thought maybe it was a rebuilders label? So help me out here...the Harting probably works just that I hadn’t operated it in over 30 years. The parts inside the Harting are superior in quality compared to the rebuild parts...but that should be expected. I probably could keep the Harting as a back up and look for a good used....in need of rebuild LCS SU Fuel Pump that can utilize the rebuild kit? What would be my out of pocket expenses to purcase a pump from the UK? Bob
 
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