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Rebuild [Chapter 2]

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Just talked to the body shop guys. The outer body is completely blocked and primed. A little extra welding in the rear that wasn't expected, but they're very happy with the results. They're moving on to repair of floors, priming the rest, and painting all the inside. I'm going to check on it next Thurs., and should be bringing it home before too long to install drivetrain, etc.
 
Yeah, Mickey! So, it won't be at his shgop much longer?
 
Yep - I'll bring it here to work on it a bit, then take it back to paint the outer shell. We both thought it would be good to get the outer shell primed, and everything inside and underneath painted, then stab the engine and transmission, run fuel and brake lines, etc., etc., before final paint goes on. Gonna try to run down there next Thursday morning before having to go to Nashville early afternoon.
 
Mickey...Check out my website for some of the things the body shop is planning for my V8 project!

[ 01-22-2004: Message edited by: tony barnhill ]</p>
 
Sounds good - I like smoothing out the seams. Thought about doing that to this one, but we're going for originality.
 
Could anyone tell me how much a head rebuild for a 76 Midget would cost? I was just talking to my wife about the cost of this. I thought it was around the $300 range depending on what is replaced and what is done. Do the machine shops use some of the old parts like valves and springs or always use new? I have been avoiding the engine rebuild during my restoration because it seems to be the most costly part since I am doing all of the other stuff my self. Also, one more question, if I were to rebuild this and leave it on the stand or in the car for a while without running it could it be damaged? (moisture, temp., etc.) Thanks for the help.
 
$300-$400 is a good estimate for a toatal job. If you want to use used stuff, it could be less. Definitely go with stellite exhaust valves and bronze valve guides if they aren't already there.
There are more expensive options that go up from there.
 
Rob -

I just looked at the bill for the work the machine shop did for me. The labor for cleaning and boring the block, tearing down and checking the head (it had been rebuilt already, but sat for a while) was $80. Of course, this varies with location, amount of work involved, etc., but will give you an idea for the labor.

As I said, my head had been rebuilt and was in pretty good shape. If it hadn't, I would have bought new valves and springs for it. It's just not worth skipping over, and they're not that expensive. The shop did resurface the head, and installed new stem seals. Hope this helps.

Mickey
 
Spent part of Saturday and yesterday afternoon on the B. Got the timing cover and crank pulley on - ready for the oil pump and oil pan. Got to get someone to help take the motor off the stand so I can install the rear plate.
Installed the new fuel tank - isn't it nice when the bolt holes actually line up?
Got the seat frames sanded and primed - lots of surface rust, but they look good now.
Next it's finishing up the motor and testing it before installing. Got to put gaskets and seals in the transmission, then all can go in. Just need a little more time to spend on it....
 
Forgot to ask earlier -

Anyone know what the torque setting is for the crankshaft pulley bolt on the 18V engine? Can't find it in my Bentley's manual.
 
I have Leyland, Bentley, Haynes and Clymer. The Haynes manual says 70 ft. lbs.

(Sorry I haven't been able to call back. I was trying to make sure everything was squared away for Region 5, but David P. seems to have it all set up. See you in May.)
 
Thank you, Sir!

70 sounds right. I put 50 on it, thinking it would be on the low side, but wanted to be sure. The Bentley has settings for just about every nut and bolt on the car, and I was surprised not to find it in there.

Mickey
 
Motor is going together nicely. I haven't runt into any glitches, and it's looking good. Next question:

I've bought gaskets, front seal, and filter for the transmission and overdrive unit. I'm not going to disturb any of the "innards" - just do a cursory inspection - but before I go tearing into this thing, any tips on what to do (and more importantly, what not to do!)?

Thanks as always,
Mickey
 
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