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Rebuild [Chapter 2]

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Mickey Richaud

Mickey Richaud

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Just got the parts back from the machine shop. Everything checked out and cleaned up great, and it's all been balanced. Got new .030 pistons to go in, and the rods were reconditioned and balanced. It's amazing how much metal they took off the crank and flywheel. Even the pressure plate. Sure makes you wonder about building motors without taking the time to balance.

Tomorrow will be spent priming the block and the head before assembling over the next few weeks.
 
Priming block & head?...I usually just shoot Ford Blue engine paint over it all - well over all the surfaces that would normally by painted - & then use the proper color after its assembled!

[ 10-30-2003: Message edited by: tony barnhill ]</p>
 
what did you do, buy a 55 gal drum of Ford Blue?
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No, it just seems to be a nice, bright color that is covered up easily by MG Maroon, Black or MG Green....Red seems to cause weird things to happen to those engine colors, Blue doesn't
 
John -

The only thing I've bought so far is the set of pistons and the head gasket set. Got them from Moss, as they had them in stock (AE brand pistons). Will be ordering main and rod bearings, and all the seals and lower gasket set next week, from whoever has them in stock.
 
I plan on buying a major rebuild kit from Brit-tek. I spoke with Bob a few times already and in addition to his good price, his customer service seems over the top.

Good luck.
 
When I restored my TR3, I did it piecemeal, as I saved up enough "lunch money" to order the parts I needed, depending on where I was in the restoration. I farmed out the rebuild of the motor on that one, but decided to tackle this one on my own. Rather than buy a complete package, I'm doing all this in stages. Probably cheaper in the long run to do as you are, but mine is a "pay as you go" endeavor. And I'm not in a big hurry to get it done.

It'll be interesting to compare notes with you, John. Keep me posted on your progress.
 
Sounds good Mickey! I just got my engine to the machine shop last Monday. The crank is currently being ground, .010 and the pistons are going .030. I got the bad news last Wednesday that my head was cracked! I'm also saving and paying as I go, so after I get the bottom end is rebuilt, I will save up to buy another head. This is my first rebuild and I plan on doing a good bit myself, not only to save $$$'s but also because I really enjoy reading, learning, turning a wrench and the satification of doing it myself.

Good Luck!
 
John -

Sorry about the head
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. Be sure and check here when you're ready to get another. I imagine someone's got a usable one.

After seeing the initial spin report on my crank, and the results after it and the flywheel and pressure plate were balanced, I hope you're spending the extra dollars to do yours. And don't forget the rods. Money well spent!
 
Mickey, how much did it cost to get the crank and flywheel balanced?
 
You should get more than your crank and flywheel balanced!! Your rods, your pistons and your clutch!! You will be suprised at how much they take off!! They should spin them up and 'dynamically' balance them. I never rebuild an engine without 2 things!! Bronze valve guides and balancing!! When I rebuilt my engine the first time, I paid to have it balanced, but obviously I got ripped off!! No big deal!! I tell everybody I meet about it!! Anyway, I believe the question was how much it costs!! About $200 cdn here!! That would be about $150 in yank bucks!!
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Thanks Gary, I do plan on having it done. I was just curious about cost. My machine shop guy, quoted me $125 (Yank Bucks) for just balancing the crank. Compared to what he was charging me for other items that seemed high. I don't know. Maybe that included the fly wheel. I'll ask him again. I just like to be informed!
 
Balancing has to be done as a set, otherwise it would just be static balancing, which you could do on your kitchen table with a bit of work!! It is probably balancing the whole set that makes a difference!!! Man for a guy that was just going to 'patch' his engine in the beginning, you are sure going all the way!!! In my opinion, that is the only way to go!! GOOD LUCK buddy!!
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[ 11-02-2003: Message edited by: Gary Lloyd ]</p>
 
John -

Total damage was just over $400. EVERYthing was balanced, and as I mentioned, they provided a sheet with all the before and after numbers. That also included boiling the block, cleaning up all the rust, new cam bearings installed, etc., etc.

Mickey
 
A note of caution on ordering parts a bit at a time. The shipping will add up.
Try to order as much as possible in one whack. Tell the wife you are saving her money. It's worth a try, sometimes it works.

Mickey - how far is Clarksville from Cookville (Tenn Tech)?
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gary Lloyd:
You should get more than your crank and flywheel balanced!! Your rods, your pistons and your clutch!! You will be suprised at how much they take off!! They should spin them up and 'dynamically' balance them. <hr></blockquote>

Hi Gary,
I think this is what you meant, Just a little clarification.
With inline engines only the rotating parts, flywheel, balancer or pulley, clutch, & the crank itself are spun. Each part can be spun individually, everything assembled & final checked as a unit.

The rest of the engine is statically balanced. All pistons weigh the same, all rod big ends (rotating weight) weigh the same, all rod small ends (reciprocating weight) weigh the same.

V type engines are done the same except that a bob weight is clamped onto each rod journal before the crank is spun. The bob weights are set to weigh 100 percent of the rotating weight (rod big end plus bearing shells) plus usually 50 to 80 percent of the full reciprocating weight (rod small end plus piston & rings)

This 50 to 80 percent balance factor varies with the intended engine usage & resonances of the particular car design.

It will all help engine smoothness & bearing life as you said.
D
 
Gary,
I hate typing too, my one finger technique is pretty slow. When I refused to learn typing in high school I never dreamed that I would need it years later. I don't make too many typos or spelling errors because each character is deliberately thought out & selected one at a time. Oh well.
D
 
GTs-

Clarksville is about 130 miles from Cookeville, on the other side of Nashville.

You're right about the shipping. I usually hold off ordering until I have enough to get one of the discounts, and that helps some. Also, when I restored the TR3 I waited until the parts I needed were on sale. Or, if I saw a sale item and knew I would eventually need it, I'd grab it then. This car is going to be my wife's, so she hasn't complained yet!
 
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