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rear wheel stud

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My understanding is that the rear wheel studs are NOT pressed in, but rather screwed in and then peened over in the back to prevent them from unscrewing. Here are some being sold on e-bay that will give you an idea of what they look like. These are for the wire wheel adapters, so they are shorter then the ones for the steel wheels, but the idea is the same. I would imagine that the threads have stripped out of the stud and/or hub flange.

Can you remove the wheel?? If not, you might have to cut the lug nut off too see what will have to be done to repair this.
 
No special tools necessary. Once you remove the old and place the new into position, you can use a spacer with a proper sized hole to duplicate the wheel, and draw the stud into position by tightening the lug nut onto it.
 
Sorry but Doug is wrong on the TR4 but right on the TR6. The TR4/4A rear studs screw in and are peened over on the back to hold them in. The front studs (only) are knurled and can be knocked out and replaced on the TR4, but on the TR6 F&R are the same process.

If yout TR4 rear stud spins, we will need more information as to the condition of the hub for a recommendation on how to proceed with the repair. Remove the wheel as martx-5 suggested and report back please. If the threads are totally gone, you may be able to drill out to fit a standard sized press-in/draw-in stud (Chevy) to replace it.
 
One stud was short on one of the rear hubs (I don't know why) of the TR3A we just finished. We drilled/ground it out and replaced it with one with the correct threads and correct length that we bought at a local auto parts store. (Car Quest) and we MIG welded it into place.
 
The fact that the stud 'spun' makes me wonder if it is an original screw in/peen over stud. If you can get the wheel off a look at the backside of the hub might be enlightening as the facory peened backside has a distinctive look that won't be there if someone has previously drilled the original out and used a pressed-thru stud as the replacement.

I would think it would be *very* difficult to replace the original-style (rear) stud w/o pulling the hub apart -- and the difficulty factor on that little job can be severe.
 
Geo-
If necessary, he can unbolt the 6 bolts on the bearing housing and remove the axle assembly from the rear end. That gives enough room to work on the peening (if there still is any) but the easiest may be to drill and replace with a press in type aftermarket stud. Mid 80's Chevrolet used a 7/16" stud thats just a little longer than the TR and can angle in with the hub still on the axle.
 
I have a similar problem on my 62 TR3B. The threads were buggered up so the lug nut would not tighten. I screwed out the stud and part of the threads came with it. I am going to try a heli-coil the stud in the axle. Has anyone tried this method? Also, Revington TR in the UK sells a stud that is larger on back so the hole in the axle can be tapped out to a larger size.

Also, someone said used a "press in draw on stud from GM" Can this be done with the axle in place and how do you draw it in?

Thanks

Mike
 
yes you can use a GM stud without removing the hub. You need to drill out the hole to the appropriate size for the knurl of the GM stud, push the stud through the rear of the hub, then using a couple of large washers over the new stud and a spare lug nut, tighten the lug nut until the knurl cuts into the hub and the head of the stud comes flush with the back of the hub. I posted on this subject recently so search the archives for the part number of the stud that I used.
 
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