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TR2/3/3A Rear Wheel Bearing instillation on TR3

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TS_1097_L

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Getting ready to install new rear wheel bearings in my 1959 TR3 and am trying to figure out how the set the new bearing on the axel. Not sure how much force I need to set the bearing down on the axel. And what do people use as a tool to slide over the axel and press on the bearing to force in down?
Thanks.
 
Actually, as I'm looking at the bearing on the axel, I'm not so sure how to get it off. I was going to use my press but there isn't much meat of the bearing sticking out beyond the axel to get a bite on. I'm trapped!!
 
This is a job for a machine shop and NOT (IMHO) for the DIY owner. Fortunately it is a job that
is hardly ever necessary as these bearings last almost forever if they have had any grease/service.
MD
 
I’m afraid we ( tr register forum ) borrowed this idea
mastaphixa said:
Here's a link that describes how to make a tool to get the hubs separated from the axle. I followed it and got mine apart with no problem. https://www.britishcarforum.com/com...-solution-for-separating-axle-and-hub.107877/
Steve Baker
Click to expand...
And Bob ended up making about 8 or 10 units.

I have one and it’ll be available on loans to my local group in NW England.

So in answer specialist tools required.
 
+1...the tapered axle is a bear to separate from the bearing race. It requires a special puller or a very large press. Often it still requires heat to get it to release.
 
I am not sure what exactly David did on this forum to separate the 2. He made a tool and it worked well. Hopefully, he will chime in and explain.
 
There are at least a couple threads that show how to fashion a copy of the original churchill puller. It screws onto the large threads on the hub. The advantage is it stretches the axle to release it, which is preferable. If you use a press to attempt the removal, you are then compressing the axle, which is less than optimal. While a press can work, it is very easy to distort the axle and ruin it, especially is the press is too small and starts to lose square as you load it. The special tool cannot hurt anything like a press can.
 
I made the rear hub tool based around the 1-7/8" x 8tpi threads on the hub. Made quick work of my hubs and several others since. Buy the parts and weld the nut together. Great tool! Great idea!

1 x Grade 2H steel nut, 1-7/8" x 8 tpi, McMaster-Carr # 90521A037 $10.59
1 x Grade 5 steel bolt, 1-1/2" x 6 tpi, 5" long McMaster-Carr # 91283A452 $12.43
1 x Grade 8 steel nut, 1-1/2" x 6 tpi, McMaster-Carr # 90499A041 $4.43
1 x Multipurpose 110 copper bar 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 6" McMaster-Carr # 8964K851 $11.55
 
sp53 said:
I am not sure what exactly David did on this forum to separate the 2. He made a tool and it worked well. Hopefully, he will chime in and explain.
Click to expand...
Hey Guys, I created the tool as you've seen to press the hubs from the axles in a similar way as the Churchill tool. I assembled and installed the tool, tightened and struck the bolt to shock and free the taper. Sometimes it may take a couple of times tightening and striking the bolt. If you are really lucky it will separate during the tightening operation. The tool works on any of the triumph hubs with the external threads that the nut will fit late TR3 and 4 with the live axle.
I had failing seals (like wood and were passing gear oil) that required replacement, there was nothing wrong with the bearings.

Please let me know if I did or did not answer you question.

Dave
 
HAWAIICJ said:
Hey Guys, I created the tool as you've seen to press the hubs from the axles in a similar way as the Churchill tool. I assembled and installed the tool, tightened and struck the bolt to shock and free the taper. Sometimes it may take a couple of times tightening and striking the bolt. If you are really lucky it will separate during the tightening operation. The tool works on any of the triumph hubs with the external threads that the nut will fit late TR3 and 4 with the live axle.
I had failing seals (like wood and were passing gear oil) that required replacement, there was nothing wrong with the bearings.

Please let me know if I did or did not answer you question.

Dave
Click to expand...
Thank You! It works VERY well. I've separated 6 hubs now...easily! all for leaks.
 
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