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Rear travel question

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bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
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I have lowered my bugeye 11/4" all the way around, with springs up front and lowering wedges in the rear. Now I am looking at that much less rear axle travel, and it doesn't take much to bottom out the suspension, which can have adverse affects on one's rear end (referring to mine). I saw a car that had a 4 link with coil over conversion that was pretty cool, and it allowed for a good amount of wheel travel. So I was thinking of cutting down the bump stops a bit to allow for a bit more travel. Can anyone think of a reason not to do this?
 
unknown, got the car 2 years back and haven't touched them. thats next on my to-do list. not leaking , just crusty and old
 
Good idea, Peter C has the solution on Shocks!! :thumbsup:
 
He's doing my fronts as we type. But shocks are one thing, lack of rear wheel travel is another....
 
One way to gain a bit is to cut to tops off the rubber bumpers as long as you don't end up hitting anything else @ full compression.

Be watchful! :thumbsup:
 
That's what I was asking, any problems with cutting them down a bit?
 
I would do it, you can replace them if you don't like the result. :wall:

Not too many dollars! :thumbsup:
 
I’m running a four link on my Bugeye, if you include the pan hard it would be a five link. However, in reference to shock travel I have a total of five inches with 175lb springs rates. As of yet I can not give a pro or con view to the performance due to the body restoration work, so no advice on its performance because the car is not finish as of yet. But I do know my friend Mike Youles likes how they work on his Sebring Sprite.

In my view I would remove half thickness and give it a good test to see how your springs react. Not knowing what rate your springs are rated at only makes it a trial and error learning situation.
 
I'd like to know more about your 4 link conversion, shock choice, etc. I am thinking of one day doing this with an RX7 rear end, but I really need more info and schematics on how to pull it off.
 
Pro Shocks in Atlanta was where I went, I spoke with Jim. In my view theirs no need to use the RX7 rear end… I used the later Midget rear axle to work from, cut everything off from it and started from scratch. The reason I stayed with the Midget rear axle was the differentials are very hearty, In Geoffrey Healeys book “More Healey” they raced a 1692cc MGA engine in a Sprite with no issues, so it should handle my 1380 easily. If I want to drive faster I just jump in the Caterham. The Midget is a great foundation to build from, it’s the right width and you don’t have to find or make axles, plus if you want LSD you can get one and you don’t have any issues with wheels. Also you have many gear ratios to choose from which making its choice a no brainer. I just added the rear disc brakes to finish the look as well aiding brake performance. After a thoroughly testing and conclude that everything is working I’ll put up some information of its results.
 
I'll be looking forward to seeing the results.
The reason I am looking at the RX7 rear is they are a dime a dozen, already limited slip and disc, and the axle can be drilled to accept our bolt pattern. Granted I will have to narrow it, which may be pricey, but I think still less expensive than buying a LSD and disc conversion for the Midget axle.
 
I will add one last conclusion! In removing the leaf springs, spring shackles, shocks & links, and upper radius arms I lost 49 lbs from the rear axle after the fabrication. I fabricated all the links out of 6061 aluminum tubing and the rear sway bar and pan hard from 4340 chrome moly tubing. I know this rear axle will be much lighter than the RX7 so the weight to HP performance will also come by not carrying the extra weight, just some fruit for thought. I don’t know how many gear ratios are offered in the RX7, but I do like choices for the Spridget, I believe their four or five to choose from.
 
Wow, I really want to see pics of what you have done!
 
I thought the main reason to consider an RX7 rear was because the Spridget axle shafts are notoriously weak. Guys i nknow who like to autocross always carry a spare axle with them.

Thoughts???


Kurt.
 
The photo was taken in the final assembly stages. Everything was pre-fitted, chassis was weight loaded to check for fit while wheels on to make sure no wheel interferences, I’m running 14” wheels. Everything now is dissembled powder coated, labeled, photograph, I have a few items that I want plated that will be nickel plated, other than that its ready to be installed after the car comes off the rotisserie painted and then assembled on the dolly.
 
You can brake anything if you abuse it, autocross guy’s are making very tight turns that starts the wheel spinning which is neat to watch but when that wheel grabs it shock loads the axle and stress it, soon or later you’ll bound to brake it. You can however purchase EN24 axles from Winners Circle, you most likely will never break one, but they will brake too just very hard to do so!! Here’s differnt view.
 
Thanks for the pics. That is a clean looking installation.
 
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