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rear suspension rattle/squeak/clunk remedy...

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Jer

Jer

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Back in the 2007 driving season my midget developed an annoying clunking noise on the passenger rear suspension, I put it on the hoist & checked the rear lever shock oil level, pulled / pushed on all the suspension components & check the leafs for any broken springs - all seemed fine, I even resorted to taking the spare tire, jack & tool bag out to see if the source was from something loose in the trunk... noise was still there -

I decided that something in my lever shock must be shot on the inside & put it on the "sometime" list as it didn't seem to affect performance, just this annoying clunk which was even more annoying when the top was up & it was beating like a drum inside :smile:

Today after going for a 4 hour ride (and being really annoyed) I put it on the hoist & decided now that I have a surplus of extra parts from "Earl" my BE Sprite project maybe I could put a spare lever shock into "Midge", before removing I grabbed the shock & by chance placed a pry bar against it just to see... much to my embarrasment the 2 fine thread ny-lock mounting nuts had backed of just enough to make the lever shock appear tight to a pull from my hand, but not tight enough to a pry bar... I tightned up the 2 nuts with a 9/16 wrench & viola ! the annoying clunk is now gone after 2 years (I'm sure there may be some mounting hole repair to do during some future overhaul)

Anyways just wanted to post to save someone else the embarrasement of putting up with a stupid clunk for 2 years that was corrected in 5 minutes by using a pry bar (not just hands) & a wrench.... yeeesh I'm so ashamed ;-)
 
Is OK, I did the same thing awile back except that I was the PDO and had not tightened it enough.
 
I'm going to check mine today! I have a clunk like that too. Passenger rear, can't find the source. Every manhole cover-clunk!
 
Another source for the noise can be the ball end of the vertical link. Bit more obvious but can "feel" fine on cursory inspection.

The loose shock will generally leave "witness" marks where the body has moved around at the surface where it meets the chassis. Like "snow angels" in the surface area.
 
DrEntropy said:
The loose shock will generally leave "witness" marks where the body has moved around at the surface where it meets the chassis. Like "snow angels" in the surface area.
Click to expand...

Good point to remember, in my case the bugger it all is the darn ny-lock nuts just "slakened" so they didn't back off enough to let the shock float around or cause any marks (the paint on the wheel well side of the bolts wasn't even cracked), just enough for a rattle under load - I guess they were doing their job, they held on & didn't fall off ! Now that I think about the abuse that suspensions see it makes sense to check everything with a pry bar, pulling with my hands hardly simulates real driving forces :smile:
 
another clunk source can be the u-bolts on the springs - don't ask me how I know. - I actually just went under and re-tightened everything
 
Okay, I pulled the passenger rear wheel (why is it closer to the body panel then the driver's side? is that normal? I had to put in axle stands under the body to unload the suspension or my wheel would not come off, I don't remember it being that big a deal last time, is my rear end moving??...I digress)

Nuts and bolts on damper felt tight. I snugged them up anyway. Was sure it had done no good....but....clunk is gone. Too cool. Thanks!!
 
That's great ! glad my remedy worked for you as well !!
Isn't that the most annoying sound ?
My 1 hr drive back home this afternoon was so nice - I can't believe I put up with that clunk for 2 years !!
So happy BCF has helped... Again !!
 
Amen, almost as annoying not knowing what is wrong as it "looked" and even felt fine. I'm still not sure what was loose. I backed them off and cranked them down again. I really did not expect that to work but I drove a good 12 miles or so over some pretty crappy roads (they're all pretty crappy in Michigan) and not one clunk. I love it when a quick easy fix gets it. So much better then rebuilding the whole rear suspension! Again, a million thanks for the post.
 
This is one of those things that gets rediscovered on a regular basis.
I remember back when it worked for me too, got rid of that annoying clunk back there, very nice.

Now think of all the other nuts & bolts that have been working their way loose over the decades and start tightening. While you are back there check those big U bolts over the axle...
 
I'm still curious about the "rear axle offset" I seem to have. Seems I remember that being mentioned at one point, like that's the way it was designed.
 
Should not be offset. However, we do that to stock cars because they always turn one way.

Not quite sure how you would do that to a spridget. I think some careful measurements are in order.

Now just to scare you to death. Has the front spring mount moved? Clean, no rust, etc, etc.
 
front spring mount?.....seriously should I check something out? I'm pretty new to all this stuff yet. I just measured from the sidewall of the tire to the inside edge of the fender, 3/4" on the passenger, closer to 1.5" on the driver. Could be lots of reasons for that I guess. Car tracks straight and handles well.
 
I believe Jack is referring to the rear spring mounts, are they sound, have they been repaired ?
Also if the rear 1/4's have been repaired/replaced that is where you may be seeing the difference, the inside edge of the fender may vary from side to side... may want to check from some other reference & see if you notice the same difference.
 
Where the 1/4 springs mount? All looks really good to me. I can take some more measurements but I don't think I really have an issue, I'm sure not looking for more!
 
RickB said:
This is one of those things that gets rediscovered on a regular basis.
I remember back when it worked for me too, got rid of that annoying clunk back there, very nice.

Now think of all the other nuts & bolts that have been working their way loose over the decades and start tightening. While you are back there check those big U bolts over the axle...
Click to expand...

The bolt heads are difficult to tighten as it requires a thin wall socket. We see LOTS of shocks showing evidence of having been loose.

If you're up for it, replace the bolts with Allen socket head screws so you can tighten them fully.

Peter C
 
Well I supose it could be off 1/2 an inch. That does not seem a huge amount really. I think then I would just keep an eye on it at oil changes.
 
jlaird said:
Well I supose it could be off 1/2 an inch. That does not seem a huge amount really. I think then I would just keep an eye on it at oil changes.
Click to expand...

Will do. I wouldn't have noticed but that I can't get my right rear wheel off the car by jacking under the pumpkin. I have to jack the car and unload the suspension or I can't wiggle it out of the fender. Not an issue on the driver's side. On to other things.
 
jvandyke said:
jlaird said:
Well I supose it could be off 1/2 an inch. That does not seem a huge amount really. I think then I would just keep an eye on it at oil changes.
Click to expand...

Will do. I wouldn't have noticed but that I can't get my right rear wheel off the car by jacking under the pumpkin. I have to jack the car and unload the suspension or I can't wiggle it out of the fender. Not an issue on the driver's side. On to other things.
Click to expand...
Any sign of the panel being replaced at some point? DPO of my car replaced driver side rear panel at some point. When they attached it they must have forgotten to check the fit of the wheel before they welded everything together. It's something that wouldn't be noticed by somebody that wasn't looking for it but it's close enough for the tire to rub with 185's installed. Seems to be ok now with a 155 tire installed.

**EDIT: I hadn't noticed Jer's post earlier in this thread but I just went back and noticed it. I guess my car has the exact symptom that he described.**
 
Gesh, it could have been a factory jig prob even.

No one would have normaly noticed as wheels were changed by jacking from the side which decompressed the springs.
 
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