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Rear springs completed

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SteveT

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After who knows how many hours and cool gin and tonics, I finished the rear springs on my '70 GT. Working until 2:00 AM this morning, the job is done. I hope I'm not too optimistic, since I've not driven her, but after two sets of springs, installing and removing twice, it's done and she looks GREAT!

For all those looking to replace the rear springs, go to Motorhead or Brit-Tek to purchase, they both sell the correct spring, $75.95 each. Be sure the springs come from the British Spring LTD company, UK made, and the marking is ACH31 (BGT - 7 leaf). The springs from VB sit 3" too high. The BSL springs sit about 1/2" too high but, will set in a couple of hundred miles to normal ride height. Also, my car sat about 1" lower on the drivers side and now she sits only 1/4" low, yes, I am happy about that. Now, onto the front suspension.

Thanks to everyone on this board; what a great wealth of knowledge and so eager to help! And a special thanks to Gary Mills.
cheers.gif


Steve

[ 04-19-2003: Message edited by: SteveT ]</p>
 
Good for you Steve!! Now, why does it sit 1/4 inch low?? Anyway, don't worry about it until you have done the front!! GOOD LUCK!!!!!
 
After driving the GT yesterday, after the job was finished, there is no lean at all. However, there is a clunk in the rear when you either get on the gas or off. U-joint or thrust washer? any ideas?

Ah, the joys of having an LBC.

Steve
 
Steve,
I have same problem. Worm wire wheels or U-joint probably. I am going to replace the u-joints as my wires are OK. Get under car and see if there is play in the driveshaft.
Gary
 
Yes, wire wheels. How do you know if they're worn? They look good to me and sit on the spline tightly. Also, is there supposed to be ANY play in the drive shaft or is it tight? There appears to be a little play back and forth by about 1/2"

Also, need to replace front shocks. Levers or converstions? I have a set of Monroe converstions that came with the car, not on now, and after looking at them last night don't rellay know if I want to put them on. They attached to the rear of the bottom A frame and look as if they would put undue stress on those members. I put conversions on the back, Monroe, as these seem to be pretty straight forward and will not stress any of the suspension members. Also, they give the car a very good ride.

Is it OK to have tubes on the back and levers on the front, for performance?

Also, any recomendations on getting quality rebuilt fronts?

Thanks for all your time and answers.

Steve
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with a mix of lever and tube shocks. Some "purists" might object if the car is used in "concours" events, but otherwise, I think it's up to you.

I agree that the kits for front tube shock conversion create extra stress on the lower "A" arms......I have a Spridget with a similar king-pin setup, and was also concerned about this. I built plates that "spread the load" across the lower "A" arm, which I'm hoping will work better in terms of stress reduction (so far, it's been a huge performance improvement).

Here's my page on this:

https://npmccabe.tripod.com/spritetubeshock.htm

Without the extra "load plates", I'd stick with the levers.
 
I agree with the purist approach; however, I will not be entering any concours shows, yet. I like the "peoples choice" shows because it's about being proud of your LBC, and the fact you've pretty much did everything yourself, just like the guy next to you, in most cases.

Nial, I like the lower mounting plate. It looks like it does the job of spreading out the stress.

I just ordered rebuilt levers from World Wide Auto. Should have them by Friday and will put them on. I went with the original levers so I wouldn't have to relocate the brake line, plus my old levers leak as well.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by SteveT:
Yes, wire wheels. How do you know if they're worn? They look good to me and sit on the spline tightly. Also, is there supposed to be ANY play in the drive shaft or is it tight? There appears to be a little play back and forth by about 1/2"

Also, need to replace front shocks. Levers or converstions? I have a set of Monroe converstions that came with the car, not on now, and after looking at them last night don't rellay know if I want to put them on. They attached to the rear of the bottom A frame and look as if they would put undue stress on those members. I put conversions on the back, Monroe, as these seem to be pretty straight forward and will not stress any of the suspension members. Also, they give the car a very good ride.

Is it OK to have tubes on the back and levers on the front, for performance?

Also, any recomendations on getting quality rebuilt fronts?

Thanks for all your time and answers.

Steve<hr></blockquote>
 
Sorry!! OK, if the splines come to a point they are worn!! It is quite normal!! There should be no play in your U-joints, but there will be a little play in the differential!!
thirsty.gif
 
Is a "little play" in the differential equal to about 1/2" of movement on the perimeter of the brake drum on a Midget? It's a '71 with 86k miles.
 
Hi Steve-

Just had my local MG shop look at my differential because of the play in it. They advised me it is a trait that is endemic in the b's. They also said that it posed no real problem as long as it remained just an initial clunk on acceleration or decceleration. Said the clunk is the diff. gears being pushed outwards on accel. Also said the cost associated with going into diff. and getting everything lining up properly and taking out play by using shims involves some trial and error makes it quickly not worth the effort, as time = money. Their advice was to keep driving it, most likely for many years yet, then replacing diff. from a donor car. Hope this allays your concerns somewhat.

good luck

lyle
 
Lyle,

I will drive her this weekend again, got the front shocks off last night and expect the new ones today. I'll check the clunk again, and it is exactly as you described, on and off the gas, just a single clunk. It still worries me though. I had a '68 Sprite that had no clunk at all and I never did anything to the rear.

Now I wonder if I need to have u-joints installed? When moving the drive shaft back anf forth, other than the 1/2" play in the diff, there appears to be no movement in the joints. Is there anyother way to check other than going to the shop?

Thanks for all the help.

Steve
savewave.gif
 
Steve -

Good luck with the diff. On the subject of the ujoints, if they seem sound and well greased, they are probably ok. Changing them out is a bit of a hassle, but easy enough to do in an afternoon. The Haynes manual shows how to change out. If you don't have a vice, go to a friend with one, as you will need it to press out the old and press in the new caps onto the ujoints. No way to really check the old, other than checking for play. Once you start taking the caps off the needle bearings tend to get away.

good luck

lyle
 
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