Rear Spring installation

[4tecdog]

Just had rear springs on my bj8 refurbished by Jones springs in Birmingham, looks like they have done a good job only problem now is reinstalling them got as far as installing the front anchor bolts loosely. How the ???? do you marry up the rear linkage. There must be a mention on this forum somewhere but I have only found one so far. Can anyone point me in the right direction please. I do have the car on a lift and have a hydraulic transmission jack handy.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Do you have a Porta-Power? That will allow you the spread the eyes far enough apart to reach the rear shackles.

(if you already have a lift and xmsn jack, a Porta-Power isn't much of a stretch)

 

[4tecdog]

Unfortunately don't have a porta power that is still on the wish list, I heard somewhere a sequence using ratchet straps or c clamps? With the front anchor points attached do I then attach the axle u bolts or go for the rear coupling before offering up the axle ?

 

[steveg]

Unfortunately don't have a porta power that is still on the wish list, I heard somewhere a sequence using ratchet straps or c clamps? With the front anchor points attached do I then attach the axle u bolts or go for the rear coupling before offering up the axle ?

Rear coupling then axle. I would think you could use a piece of channel steel or a 2x4 below the spring with a large c-clamp at either end in order to flatten the spring enough for the rear eye to be aligned with the rear shackle.

 

[4tecdog]

Thanks Steve, I did tackle one Spring this afternoon what I thought might be a challenge turned out not too bad, I am well used to working on marine engines so challenges are common . Firstly I attached the front anchor point then placed a 8in long 11/2 in x 1/2in strip of hardwood above the rear anchor point to protect the inner deck pannel. Then with the new Spring plates and bushes in place jacked up the Spring just forward of the axle this enabled the rear anchor point to travel along the hardwood strip and with a little fine adjustment on the jack was able to line up the rear bushes and insert the coupling. Then jacked up a little more removed the hardwood strip and carried on jacking to line up the u bolts, hey presto job done. It turned out a bit easier than removing as the front anchor bolts were seized in the bushing inserts and you know what a b of a job that is.

 

[bob hughes]

I did my 1006 rear springs when I had it in '75, in the drive, but for the life of me I can not remember how I did it. All I had was jacks, so it could not have been anything fancy, I also dropped the springs on my BJ7 back in 2000 and something, to replace those sintered bushes and I did it one side at a time and I am thinking - fit the spring at the front end, fit spring to the axle and jack up rear end to meet the shackles but I can not be sure. I did not break sweat over it that's for sure.



Bob

 

[blueskies]

It sounds as if you did well, 4tec. As I recall, from doing this on the 100-6 not long ago, installation requires ingenuity and considerable force. The potential for injury is there, so choosing a safe process is most important.

 

[RAC68]

Hi All,

I must be missing something as I never had that much difficulty "installing" my rear springs....that I can remember. In the mid 1990s the rear springs in my BJ8 Phase 1 (rear suspension as earlier models) seemed too low and I purchased a new set for installation. As I remember, I was able to connect the front pivot pin and rear shackle with no real difficulty. I then placed a jack under the bottom mount, being careful to allow sufficient "U" bolt and toe nut clearance, when beginning. I would then raised the jack, with bottom spring plate, to allow the "U" bolts to pass through the plate and begin to be captured by the lock nuts. I believe I left a small amount of flex and only tightened the shackle lock bolts sufficiently to allow safe removal of the jack. Once the Jack was removed, I then made sure all was in alignment and tighten the lower lock nuts evenly all around until home.

I was told when purchasing my new springs that they would raise the car higher then I had wanted. However, I was assured that the spring would settle over time and, sorry too say, it was not long before my springs sank to a level lower then the originals. Frustrated, I thought of installing the original second leafs as an addition into each of the new spring bundles and found it was easier to use the original springs as my base bundles and include the additional newer 2nd leafs into the original pack (I had saved for some odd reason). For the past 15 years I have been using this arrangement with great satisfaction in both rear body height and operation.

Keep in mind that the springs are attached from above the mountings with the front eyes addressed first.

Hope this helps,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[4tecdog]

Everything is now back in place I cannot comment yet how she sits as I am still working on the under carriage exhaust etc.
I am hoping to have lost the list I had to port (passenger side ) I took the advice to recondition my original springs as the steel is probably better than new springs and I am told less chance of them sagging prematurely. I will let you know once back on the road.

 

[roscoe]

I had my original leaf springs re-arched and heat treated and was happy for about a year and then had the same old sag. Just my experience. Rather than take my chances with aftermarket springs that came with no guarantee, I had Martin at Jule Enterprises make me a set. I don't know if he still does it but he asked me what wheel arch height I wanted and told me they would be what I asked for but that I might find them a bit stiffer than what I had. They were spot on for the height and they were /are a bit stiffer but I never hit my muffler anymore and I am completely happy after many years. They do not have the same number of leaves (fewer) but that is not something I care about.

 

[Keoke]

I took the advice to recondition my original springs

Most likely the cause of all your troubles.----:highly_amused: