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Rear shock bolts
- Thread starter bighly
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There was a previous discussion here:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000789
If the holes in the shock bodies are enlarged the problem will be exagerated. I think that about the best that you can do is make sure that the holes are not oversize, use hardened flat washers under the bolt heads next to the aluminum, & grade eight bolts tightened to 40 ft lbs. & check frequently. If the holes are oversize (larger than .377") you can either bore out the holes & press in steel bushings or get new shocks with tighter holes.
The bolts are really too small for the application but it would be hard to get room for 7/16 bolts.
I found that a standard 9/16 socket was too large to fit in the tight space of the shock body & got a thinwall socket. You probably cannot get the bolts to proper torque with an open end or box end wrench. For reasons given in the above thread I don't think that using locTite will help much.
Shocks which have heavy duty valving or thicker fluid will make the problem worse.
D
https://www.britishcarforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=000789
If the holes in the shock bodies are enlarged the problem will be exagerated. I think that about the best that you can do is make sure that the holes are not oversize, use hardened flat washers under the bolt heads next to the aluminum, & grade eight bolts tightened to 40 ft lbs. & check frequently. If the holes are oversize (larger than .377") you can either bore out the holes & press in steel bushings or get new shocks with tighter holes.
The bolts are really too small for the application but it would be hard to get room for 7/16 bolts.
I found that a standard 9/16 socket was too large to fit in the tight space of the shock body & got a thinwall socket. You probably cannot get the bolts to proper torque with an open end or box end wrench. For reasons given in the above thread I don't think that using locTite will help much.
Shocks which have heavy duty valving or thicker fluid will make the problem worse.
D
OP
bighly
Jedi Knight
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The shocks are new and yes tightening these is a bear. I used a grade 8 bolt before with a nyloc nut. I'll switch to flat and lock washer with a normal nut.
They stay tighened for about 600 miles then begin to slacken with the nylocs.
Another simple fix. Cheers dave.
They stay tighened for about 600 miles then begin to slacken with the nylocs.
Another simple fix. Cheers dave.
Ed Kaler
Jedi Warrior
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<< I used a grade 8 bolt before with a nyloc nut. >>
Do NOT use Grade 8 hardware is "shear" locations!!!
ONLY in just plain "clamping" situtions!!
The ONLY thing that came on these cars (and 99% of others) is Grade 5.
Grade 8 is BRITTLE compared to Grade 5 !!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA
(24+ YEARS)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at:
www.justbrits.com
Do NOT use Grade 8 hardware is "shear" locations!!!
The ONLY thing that came on these cars (and 99% of others) is Grade 5.
Grade 8 is BRITTLE compared to Grade 5 !!
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA
(24+ YEARS)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at:
www.justbrits.com
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Best hardware I can think of is "airframe" bolts.
For any given length, they will have a long shank and only enough threads for the nut and a few "spacer" washers.
They are ordered by "grip length" (combined thickness of the parts to be bolted together) and are available in 1/16" to 1/8" increments depending on diameter.
Naturally, you would want to use a "jetnut" (all steel alloy locknut) to secure.
I guarantee your problems will be over.
Excellent for driveshaft flanges too.
For any given length, they will have a long shank and only enough threads for the nut and a few "spacer" washers.
They are ordered by "grip length" (combined thickness of the parts to be bolted together) and are available in 1/16" to 1/8" increments depending on diameter.
Naturally, you would want to use a "jetnut" (all steel alloy locknut) to secure.
I guarantee your problems will be over.
Excellent for driveshaft flanges too.
Skip & Lynne
Jedi Warrior
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For the fronts I am using airframe bolts with red loctite and lockwire, I also left the basecoat/clearcoat paint in the threads and when I ran the bolts in they were really snug. For the rears I welded small pieces of square stock to the flange to posistion the shock and then used red loctite with castellated nuts and cotter keys. Skip