TR2/3/3A rear main seal is leaking

[sp53]

I started this engine last year and ran it for 20 minutes and did not have any server oil leaks. Now I have been driving around town and my rear main seal is leaking too much. I put a Mad Max seal in also, and it is still leaking... I have rebuilt a few of these tr3 engines and they have all leaked. My hopes are that once the engine wears in and loses some pressure the rear main will slow down on the leaking. Truthfully, I doubt it.

Anyways, my plan is to pull the engine and trans together then separate the tranny then leave the head with the valve cover off and flip the motor over onto some lumber and put in the stock real seal with crank in and most the engine intact. Would that work?

I need to do something different when I install this next seal because I am missing something. I cleaned everything nicely like a surgeon and used aviation sealer on the felt. I used the mandrel that came with the Mad Max seal and it still leaks---- good bye cruel world---before I go I would like to hear from others on their rear mains except Art and John because theirs did not leak (just kidding).

steve

 

[CJD]

Mine does leak! It is the stock scroll seal, though, so it only leaks a few drops every outing. I knew that would be the case with the stock seal, but I decided that I don't mind the few drops. As long as it's running it seams to hold oil pretty well, it's just after you shut down and the scroll stops spinning the oil back in that it leaks what's left in the scroll grooves. Honestly, judging from where the oil is located on the garage floor, I think the draft tube leaks more than the scroll seal...not sure how you could stop that leak.

I think your plan to remove and roll over the engine will work fine. You'll also have to remove the cam chain cover. I haven't been exposed to the positive seals, so I can't help there...

 

[DavidApp]

Are you sure it is the main seal leaking?

I had a leak from the rear oil gallery plug that looked very much like the main seal.

I gather that the problem with the original seals was an error in the dimensions for the setting plug.

David

 

[sp53]

David is that the rear camshaft plug? I could accept that.

 

[sp53]

John why the timing cover?

 

[bobhustead]

I don't know if this will help on the plastic seal, but I have found that my original style seal (new when I rebuilt) leaks a lot less when I run it a quart down on oil.
Bob

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Steve

Yes the plug I had leaking was one of the 3 or 4 oil gallery plugs that have a copper washer under them. The rear one is right by the fuel pump.
There is another possible source of a non rear main leak the end plug on the same gallery. It has an aluminum plug that is cut off flush with the block. The only way to get to that one is by splitting the gearbox and engine. The front one on my block leaked and had me chasing a sump leak for a while till I realized that it was coming from behind the plate on the front of the engine.
So I had 2 oil leaks on my engine.

David

 

[sp53]

Thanks you guys. The Mad Max seal is an impressive piece of engineering and uses the original seal also; it is a kinda double deal. I pulled out an old engine I have and looked at the back and can see where the plug goes, but the one for that motor is missing. I do not remember what I did on this leaking motor in the back, but usually I go so slow, and I get most things in place correctly.

David thanks for reminding me about the plug because know I might pull the tranny out from the top and see what the heck I did back there 4 years ago.


Bob I have noticed the same thing that when the engine is a quart low they leak less. This engine is about a half a quart low and I think it may have slowed down. I am trying to be calm and patient with this, but leaks on a new motor put me on the lunatic fringe.

Maybe I will play that on utube to get me back in perspective with the hobby, besides I put a deposit down on another tr3. This time up in Canada on one of the islands, so maybe I will get the seal correct one day.

steve

 

[CJD]

I assumed the crank would have to come out...but if it doesn't, then the front cover can stay on. I'm completely ignorant about how the positive seals work!

 

[sp53]

Guess what I think I fixed it!!! The flexible oil line was leaking and running down the back side of the block by fuel pump and down to the rear main area. Please---- I will be a good boy I promise kinda of sorta.

Anyways I am not sure either if the crank would have to come out, probably, but there might be a work around with the last bearing cap. I heard someone say years ago they did it. It was one of those rare times when Randall was wrong maybe. He thought the crank would needed to come out, but somebody chimed in and said they put one of those seals on with the crank shaft in place.

steve

 

[CJD]

That's great! Funny how deceiving an oil leak can be. By the time it follows seems and blows back it can really fool you. Glad it wound up being an easy fix!

 

[TuffTR250]

Steve, what do you mean when you says "flexible line". I'm not clear on that. Thanks!
Bob

 

[sp53]

There is a horizontal metal line that comes out of the oil filter for the oil gauge and at the back of the block the line goes vertical to the gauge where those 2 lines meet they used a flex hose.



steve

 

[TuffTR250]

OK, thanks for explaining that to me Steve!
Bob