rear hubs...Something I can rebuild myself?

[tomshobby]

If you can wait a few weeks I will have a drawing for a puller and can post it or provide it in CAD formats. I had planned on doing it for myself while waiting for my engine in the machine shop. I do CAD/CAM and CAD/CAE work and this will be about a 15 minute job. It just happens that I have Mastercam and might even be persuaded to generate a CNC program(s, one lathe program for each end and one mill program for the bolt pattern) for some of the more common controls.

 

[roger_abbott]

Rear hub bearings should turn freely. They should not feel "sticky". Under normal usage, they also should never need repacking. The way the rear hub is designed, repacking would require the same effort as rebuilding.

Last fall, I replaced the bearings in the right rear hub of my GT6 last Fall. It is not a job for the unequipped or faint of heart.

First problem was rigging something to hold up the car. The shop manual provides drawings for fabricating a tool to hold up the car while working on the hub. Not wanting to spend time welding and fabricating the shop tool, I used a 36" long piece of 2" pipe bolted to the spring with three 3/8" diameter 2" wide u-bolts. All these items I purchased at Ace Hardware. After bolting the pipe to the spring, I jacked up the end of the pipe as per the manual. The bar holds the spring at more or less ride height and the hub hangs from it.

Next problem was extracting suspension bolts that had rusted in place (I never did get the lower pivot bolt out of the hub carrier). I disconnected the half shaft from the differential hub and the entire assembly came out.

To get the hub apart, I used a gear puller and my shop press. The hub came out with about 2-3000 lbs pressure if the press gauge can be believed. Whatever pressing force may be required, it is clearly beyond the capability of any mechanical puller.

There is a distance piece or shim in the hub that sets bearing clearance (again, see shop manual). I opted to try the new bearings with the old shim to see if I could get lucky and as it turned out, proper clearance was achieved. I had to use the press to put the hub back together. It required 6-7000 lbs pressure to bring the hub together. There isn't a hammer big enough to bring that kind of force to bear.

The whole process took up my evenings for about 10 days. Unless you have a pretty well-equipped shop, you might want to take your car to a professional who knows what is involved. Ask questions to make sure the mechanic really knows what he is doing.

Good luck.

 

[PeterK]

Check Geo's listing and link to the littlemacshop for a drawing and save youself the effort of duplication.

I kind of like the simple (Mike Ross design) built from junk method using an old brake drum https://www.triumphspitfire.com/puller.html
and a hub puller welded to metal plates. Not the "right" tool but would be fun to try to build one for one or two-time use. The key to a successful removal is to pull evenly without any side forces.

 

[Norton47]

Hi
I built a puller that is a cross between the littlemac and the homemade one.
I started with a 6 inch steel flange and a piece of pipe and a flat plate. I used a acme threaded nut and a acme threaded shaft. The nut and shaft was about 30 or 35 bucks, the flange and pipe and plate cost 10 bucks at the scrap yard.
One problem is that some acme threaded rod and nuts are made with lead added to the steel for faster machining. This type will not weld easily. Ask for carbon steel.
Once built this worked like a champ. I hope this link works. https://new.photos.yahoo.com/norton47_74/album/576460762393067461[/img]
This link https://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr/Hub_Puller_Use_Notes.pdf
is the notes on how to do a hub pull and rebuild.
Worked well. I followed this and the hub came apart with some muscle and a 2 foot cheater bar. I am replacing the bearings now.
Good luck.
Also someone once ask about the 1947 Norton I am rebuilding there are some pics at this yahoo site of it there also.

 

[jackag91]

I got the hubs in last night. It looks like he did a great job on them. $390 for the set. Including replacing one set of studs and one other part that I can't remember.

While I haven't got them on yet, they look and feel great.

I used this guy
"rebuilt rear hubs are $165.00 each,written warranty 12 months-12000 miles,rebuilding since 1975.
Thanks
Scott
High Point Imports
5858 Prospect St.
Archdale, N. C. 27263
336-884-1455 M-F best time to call afternoon"