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Rear Hub Nuts

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Rob Glasgow

Rob Glasgow

Jedi Knight
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I am going to treat myself to new tyres, wheels, front and back hubs. I want to replace the studs on the front hubs and the nuts on the rear hubs in the process. The normal suppliers carry them but they seem pricey for nuts and bolts. Does anyone have another source or know the specs so I can look for them. I have a BT7. I think someone covered this some time ago but I have no skill with the forum search engine.
 
I had bought them for a reasonable price from Scuderia Silva in Portland, OR. Doesn't seem to have a website. Phone 503-380-7756.

For 10, from AHspares, $41.90 + ship:
screenshot.1890.jpg


Moss: $47.90 + ship

Added:
All the studs are 7/16-20. I believe your disc front studs are 2" long. Dorman sells these in a 10-pack:
screenshot.1891.jpg

The fronts use regular (non-lug) nuts and washers. You could substitute all-steel locknuts.

Speed sources like JEGS sell high-quality US-made 7/16-20 lug nuts, which could be used on the rear with orange loctite. Make sure the bevel angle is the same.

Edit: I have a loaner rear hub with 2" studs; my own car has 2-1/4" studs. IMO 2" is the minimum length on the back. My previous post (deleted) showed 1-3/4" studs which on the back at least are too short.
 
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The rear nuts that hold the splined hub in place have a ring on the end that acts as a locking mechanism. Loctite couldn't hurt, especially if the nuts are reused. Plain conical lug nuts are common for steel wheels where the springiness of the steel keeps pressure on the lugs. I don't think the splined hub would act the same way. If Steve has had positive results with the loctite, then you have a less costly option.
Bob
 
Steve, do you have any idea how much performance gain I can expect with "drag race" lug nuts. Quicker off the line? Higher top end speed? No matter, at this price, it's worth a shot..
 
The bevel angle is the issue. I did a write up on this a longtime ago. The bevel on the commonly available new hubs from the usual suppliers is not the same as the originals. I found that the original-type lug nuts with the ā€œbuilt-inā€ lock washer did not grip the replacement hub and and did not fit properly. The dorman nuts did fit properly as the bevels matched up. I never had a problem with the nuts loosening once I switched to the dormans. I suppose if you still have the original hubs you would want to stick with the original-type nuts, but if you still have the original hubs the threads are probably suspect. Again, it is all in the matching bevel as Steve pointed out. Lin
 
Rob Glasgow said:
Steve, do you have any idea how much performance gain I can expect with "drag race" lug nuts. Quicker off the line? Higher top end speed? No matter, at this price, it's worth a shot..
Click to expand...

Rob - the details on the Moroso lug nut page list their drag-race certification. Strength of nuts and studs is an issue.

Lin - Yesterday when I removed one of the stock-type nuts with the spring, I noticed it wasn't very tight. I have replacement hubs from 2001 or so and had replaced the original-style lug nuts 7 or 8 years ago.
 
Just removed the other 4 spring-type lug nuts - they weren't tight at all. Any more loosening and the hub would have started to rattle. My hubs, from the late Hemphill's Healey Haven, are definitely 60 degree bevel.

IMO the Moroso lug nuts are overkill.

Lin - going with the Dorman lug nuts and loctite. 25-price:

screenshot.1896.jpg
 
Steve, I have used the very same Dormans for 7-8 years with no loosening at all.
Lin
 
If Steve and Lin recommend the Doman nuts, only Randy Forbes's is missing to make this a indisputable decision..... Since Randy's under the weather, I'm going with them.
 
Well, just to restate, what is important and what makes one nut right and another one not, is that the conical seat of the hub needs to match up with the bevel of the nut. Somewhere along the line the hubs changed from original and at least with the ones I have the 60 degree bevel matches perfectly.
Lin
 
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