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Tips
Tips

Rear Hub Nut

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blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
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Does anyone remember off hand what size socket fits that large Nut to remove the rear hub. I borrowed one last time. Anything you need more tahn once justifies adding it to the toolbox. I'd Like to go snatch one up today.
 
blkcorvair said:
Anything you need more tahn once justifies adding it to the toolbox. I'd Like to go snatch one up today.
Click to expand...

I can't remember off the top of my head but, fwiw, I found an entire 3/4 drive set at Princess Auto - kind of like a Canadian HF - for very little money more than buying the sockets for the hub, the crankshaft & the differential pinion, and I have used it more times than I thought for installing oil seals, drifting out universals etc. etc.

besides, the only thing better than one socket is many /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Remember, **THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS REVERSE-THREADED!**

Hehe.. the emphasis comes from someone who just stripped his, and had to wait for a new one to arrive.
 
Amen, 1 7/8". Look at the socket when you get it, mine was a 3/4" drive and required a 3/4" to 1/2" transition.
 
Try Tractor Supply if they have those in your area. Farm Equipment uses big sockets. Something like $8-9 vs. Sears for $19.95. I have a 1 7/8" socket in my toobox that I used but I seem to recall 1 13/16" as well. This isn't something you will use real often.
 
The (relatively cheap) socket that I bought had a beveled inside lip (to make it easier to slip onto large nuts, one assumes.) Due to the thinness of the nut, I had to grind 1/8" off the front of the socket, to get it to seat nicely. YMMV.
 
tosoutherncars said:
Remember, **THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS REVERSE-THREADED!**

Hehe.. the emphasis comes from someone who just stripped his, and had to wait for a new one to arrive.
Click to expand...

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif and almost stripped mine - must be a right-wing-nut Canadian plot /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Jeff--

I have Winner's Circle double-bearing hubs on the Elva. The rear axle housing is off of a Morris Minor but I believe that except for being a few inches wider it is the same as used on Sprites.

In any case I changed both bearings in one hub and reinstalled it this afternoon. The six-point socket I use to tighten the Big Nut is 1-13/16" (finest Chinese tools) which fits perfectly with a little assistance from a BFH.

I torque to 140 ft/lbs using red locktite. I use the washer with the little tab filed off and do NOT fold it over the nut.
 
Michael, I measured the nut, and it's 1 7/8", but a Chinese 1 13/16" must fit! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Quality stuff, eh?
I don't use the washer at all on my W/C hubs.
Jeff
 
While everything is up, it is a posibility you have had the pumpkin out(it is Halloween). To avoid an agravating leak, don't use a gasket when reinstalling. Simply smear a llittle sealer on both surfaces. The gasket often tears when reinstalling.
 
I'll add this, the hub nut as many of you alreadt know is prett slim, most socket this size, have a radius on the end of them making it pretty hard to fully seat on the nut. I put my socket in the lathe and turned the end flat so the socket could fully seat on the nut, I know many of you don't have a lathe, but you caould do the same thing with a side grinder. Oh I found a S&K socket that was 1/2 drive, so I don't need a adapter. I aslo go to 140 ft. lbs with red locktite and do NOT run the tab washer, not many racers do, if these things fail, they act like a hand to turn the nut off.
 
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