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Rear bugeye upgrade advice

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M

mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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I will soon start complete inspection, clean and paint of my 1959 rear end I have removed from car.
1. What upgrades or inspections should I do to rear end before painting
2. I understand that it would be best to upgrade my brakes to a double wheel cylinder? what parts to I need and if someone has parts they want to sell to do upgrade let me know.

I plan on all new brake parts including brake lines
 
I was told the take backing plates& brakes off later model and install on my axles. not sure which years to grab parts from. Or if it is worth the expense?
 
Yes, that's a common upgrade. I've not done it yet, but plan to on my bugeye and have backing plate and hardware off a early 70's midget. I think you have to re-route the plumbing and figure out the e-brake connections.

I think what you meant to say is double piston cyliders, not double cylinders.
 
I think the reason for the rear brake change is more because of the lack of replacement master cylinders for the bugeye. The new cylinders work better with the larger volume double ended rear wheel cylinders as used on the later cars, 62 and up. If you plan on converting to discs on the front I'd definitely change the rears to the newer style to match. As far as inspections to the rear axle assembly, I'd check for any cracks around the spring and control arm mountings and if you pull the differential I'd check the spider gears for looseness, may need to replace the thrust washers. If the pinion seal was leaking now's a good time to address that as well.
 
Thats why I need a game plan of correct information. I am bit unsure of what is changed and what problems will surface as I do modifications.

Are the rear axles, should I decide on upgrade really any easier to do with rear end out of car.Or should I just wait till they "give up the ghost" then replace with higher strength axles?
 
Yes I am going to upgrade the front brakes to disc.

So the master cylinder will be updated as well. and they are available where the older models are not. That is enough reason for me.

Which years can I use the rear brakes from, and also might as well find out about years of front brake parts I need also.

I would assume there is no disc brake set up for rear available?
 
The rear brake upgrade doesn't really make much of a difference, but the fronts do make a large improvement, especially if you are beafing up the hp.

John is right you will have to reroute the plumbing.

The things that I would recommend to the rear are.
1. 3.9 Diff
2. careful inspection of the spring boxes
3. changing the leafs, softening them, and using wedges to lower her/him.
4. check/replace the panhard bushings
5. check/rebuild from Peter the rear shocks
6. all the brake lines are in good order, the wheels cylinders & shoes
7. the axles are not leaking any fluids into the braking system area

and you should be good to go, I personally wouldn't spend the time or the money on upgrading the rear brakes to double cylinders.

Pat
 
The rear brake upgrade makes all the difference in the world if you make a panic stop.
Under normal braking circumstances, you will never notice it. But the first time the rear end swings around to meet the front end when some kid is chasing his ball out in the street and you have to mash the brakes, you will be glad you made the upgrade.
 
spritenut said:
The rear brake upgrade makes all the difference in the world if you make a panic stop.
Under normal braking circumstances, you will never notice it. But the first time the rear end swings around to meet the front end when some kid is chasing his ball out in the street and you have to mash the brakes, you will be glad you made the upgrade.
Click to expand...

I have never ever experienced the rear coming around for that reason. Under hard breaking mine has always tracked straight and true.

Pat
 
Frank- I trust you but...
are you saying that the Bugeye rear brakes are stronger than the late model brakes such that they will lock-up faster than the later ones?
Having rears lock-up is the only time that I have ever swapped ends (and I NEVER want to do it again!!)
Bill
 
The ratio change of rear end is that for top end improvement. and can that be used with a 5 speed conversion if I decide to do that?
 
I went with the 3.90 rear end to get a bit more relaxed cruise speed, as I'm still running a 4-speed. You can certainly use it with a 5-speed, depending on the state of tune in your motor. Some folks prefer the 4.22 with the 5-speed for a bit more pep off the line.

It's an easy swap, so you could always swap back later if you did a 5-speed changeover.
 
assume the 390 gear will give more top end. is it still ok if you change to 5 spd?

Who has used parts that I will need. Any big yards that are site suggested ?
 
One of our members here is running a 5-speed with a 3.55 rear end, so he's got even taller gearing. Really just a matter of personal taste.

If I ever move to a 5-speed, I'll keep the 3.90 at least initially.
 
I ran a 1275 3.90 and a five speed. No problems. Only on real steep grades did I have to shift out of 5th.
 
If you can find a 5 speed then the 3.90 gear works great with it. The next gear set I'd consider might be the 3.7 that was used in the last year or so 1500 Midgets. Unless you're running a 1275 or a hotter 1098 then I'd stay with the original gears for now.
 
The previous owner installed a 1275 engine with a weber conversion

So I can change the gear from a later 1500 into my housing?

can I just take complete 1500 rear end and install in my 59 bugeye?
 
The pumpkin from any year Spridget will fit right in to the Bugeye axle housing.
 
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