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TR6 rear brakes
- Thread starter rjc157
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To help clarify - are the brakes fully released? (parking brake released, shoes completely retracted)
If the old shoe linings were well worn and thin, the shoes may have been adjusted fully outward (expanded) - so they'll need to be fully retracted to accept the old drum.
- did the drum slide off the old shoes easily?
Assuming Moss sent the correct shoes - do the new shoes fit snugly into the drum? Shoe face flush against the inside of the drum?
Tom M.
If the old shoe linings were well worn and thin, the shoes may have been adjusted fully outward (expanded) - so they'll need to be fully retracted to accept the old drum.
- did the drum slide off the old shoes easily?
Assuming Moss sent the correct shoes - do the new shoes fit snugly into the drum? Shoe face flush against the inside of the drum?
Tom M.
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
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Are the adjusters backed off?
OP
rjc157
Jedi Warrior
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Just picked up this car it's a 75 going through everything po was not a tr6 guy so I don't know what he did or didn't do it was alittle difficult getting the drums off linings were down to almost nothing doubt they were ever changed thought the cylinder was frozen took it out and cleaned it might have a bad hose gonna try again to flush out the system not that easy for a one man job not sure totally what you mean by shoes fitting snugly I can't get the drum on at all
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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The new friction linings are sometimes too thick to install easily. It used to be that the parts store would grind them to match the drums, but I don't think anyone does that any more.
So, be sure the adjusters are backed off, and tap the wheel cylinder around to get the shoes centered. Then if it still won't fit, file down the shoes until they do fit.
So, be sure the adjusters are backed off, and tap the wheel cylinder around to get the shoes centered. Then if it still won't fit, file down the shoes until they do fit.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Heat will help, use a propane torch to get the adjuster body as hot as you can then try turning the screw while it is still hot. Once it starts to move, keep working it back and forth until it comes apart. Be sure to use either a square wrench or 8 point socket to turn it. Other things (like the obvious open end wrench) are more likely to round/ruin the screw.
Once it moves obviously you'll disassemble for cleaning and chasing the threads. A thin coat of copper-based anti-seize will help keep it free for easy future adjustment.
If all else fails, new adjusters are available.
Once it moves obviously you'll disassemble for cleaning and chasing the threads. A thin coat of copper-based anti-seize will help keep it free for easy future adjustment.
If all else fails, new adjusters are available.