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Rear brakes / hub seals / bearings

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tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
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Hi all,

The brakes on Milo (78 1500) have been getting worse and worse. I pulled off the rear offside wheel and drum today, and everything inside was coated in thick black grease.

One of the rubber seals on the brake piston had caught on the protrusions on the back of the hub, and had torn all the way through, so the grease that (I assume) lives under the seal will be *part* of the problem. But the entire drum, pads etc. were thickly coated, which suggests to me that there may be other leaks. When I had the car checked over last summer, the mechanic noted a slow *inner* hub leak on the other side, so I think I can safely expect that there may be leaks past the paper & rubber hub seal(s). Might they also contribute?

I already have new bearings sitting on the shelf, so I suppose I might as well do everything at once. So, what's the procedure? Something like;

- pull wheels, drums, disassemble brake pads, pistons & springs

- hose everything down with brake cleaner

- remove hub nut (size? 1 3/4" or something?) and disasemble everything

- pack & install new bearings, rubber o-rings, paper gasket

- refit & torque hub nut (N-m / lb-ft torque?)

- re-install brakes, grease piston and fit new rubber seals

- bleed brakes

What am I missing? And, what parts do I need?

https://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/SPM-027.gif

Parts 35 through 38

https://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/SPM-039.gif

Part 61

Is that it? Thoughts / suggestions? Timeline?

Thanks,
Duncan
 
Something like that Duncan. You may as well do it all while you are at it.Do it once,do it right. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

Stuart. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Can one buy a 1 7/8" socket just by itself? I am in the process of doing this same job on ncbugeye and was wondering what to do about it. I guess I will have to invest in a torque wrench as well. Any advice would be welcome.
 
Yes you can get this socket.Mine came from Ace Hardware,but I think Craftsman can supply it too.
One side is left hand thread.

Stuart. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Do the rear bearings typically go bad? They look pretty friggin' stout. I know on a B they almost never need replacing unless totally abused.
 
Single sockets, any car parts place as well.
 
Bugeye58 said:
The nut is 1 7/8", torqued to 190 Nm, Duncan.
Jeff
Click to expand...

this may be a dumb question, but how do I torque a left hand drive nut? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/square.gif
 
My old one works both ways, it is not one of those clickie things.

Was about $15 40 years ago.
 
I just started working on my rear brakes and hubs also. I've been told by numerous sources to buy new cylinders, don't waste time trying to rebuild them as there is basically no cost savings plus it's better safety wise.

I don't think my PO had a 1 7/8 socket as the nut is chewed up like many others on this car. I'm going ahead and replacing wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, seals and bearings on both sides. I'm also going to work on the suspension while I'm there also.

My driver's side rear drum was full of oil also. The seal was leaking and there were no axle or drum retaining screws. I often wonder what people who previously worked on this car were thinking when I see some of this stuff.

By the way, I bought my rear brake supplies from Joe Curto. He doesn't just do carbs!
 
OK then, to rephrase:

- disassemble and clean all
- repack bearings
- new rubber o-ring and paper gasket
- new brake cylinders
- bleed & test


Better?
 
Well I'll be. Not mentioned on his web site last I looked.
 
I think some earlier cars used 7/8 bore cylinders of which the oem stuff is expensive. My car uses a 3/4 bore cylinder and each one cost about $17.

Tony and others on here recommended replacement and said don't even think about rebuilding the cylinders. With the new ones only a few bucks more than trying to rebuild plus the recommendations of experienced people here, it was an easy decision for me.
 
I just happened to ask him about those parts when I called and found out he doesn't rebuild generators anymore.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you are supposed to pack the bearings for the rear axle, it is intended that they get enough oil from the diff along the axle casing, as long as it is itself correctly topped up. That's why the oil seal and o-rings are so important.
 
Yep yep, no packing just lub when installing. They will get oil from the diff. soon enough.
 
You CAN get a sealed bearing, if you want. It would be a 6207ZZ or 6207 2RS. Call your local bearing house.

Peter C.
 
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