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Rear Brake Shoes

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DNK

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Took the drums off to check the shoes and I can't find a spec om minimum thickness. Mine measure .190 of brake material above the lining. Anybody know if I should change or not?
 
Which toy are you playing with today? The 6 or the 8?
 
Can't remember the spec but my drums had a maximum allowable machining dimension cast right onto the drums themselves
 
Don
If yer working on your 6,min.lining thickness is .06
min drum size9.0 in. max drum size 9.040

If your talking the 8, limits are probably about the same.Change 'em and be safe for the summer otherwise you'll be putting em on the day before Bellevue ABFM /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
Brosky said:
Which toy are you playing with today? The 6 or the 8?
Click to expand...

Good point Paul, it is a bit confusing. It's the 8



AltaKnight said:
Can't remember the spec but my drums had a maximum allowable machining dimension cast right onto the drums themselves
Click to expand...

Graham, thanks ,I need shoe lining or are you telling me that the shoe material is on the drum?

Opa said:
Don
If yer working on your 6,min.lining thickness is .06
min drum size9.0 in. max drum size 9.040

If your talking the 8, limits are probably about the same.Change 'em and be safe for the summer otherwise you'll be putting em on the day before Bellevue ABFM /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
Click to expand...
Yea I know ,more$$$$$
But is the cost of the shoes so minuscule compared to the suspension upgrade.
Aw heck, who makes a good shoe?

If any of you breath 1 word to the misses,I'm toast. Just dropped $800 on a on demand water heater today. Youch!
 
Obviously I'm missing something here ... .190" is over 3/16", which for most brake shoes is nearly new ! And since the fronts do most the work (hence most of the wear) anyway, I'd say those shoes are good for several years yet (well, depending on how many races you run per year, I guess /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif )

Ted at TSi will reline your shoes with 'Kevlar' material ... was $50/set last time I had him do mine, but possibly it's gone up since then.
https://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

ISTR Clark's Discount in Bellflower, CA only charged me $40 for standard linings, but I never got to drive that car so I don't know how well they work.
 
Ok, took the brakes off cleaned and regreased everything. the book says to just put it back together and hit the brakes to adjust them. can the TR8 be that simple??
In fact can any LBC be that simple???
 
Is that "Hit the brakes" when backing up or going forward?

Self adjusters only work when going in reverse.
 
Brosky said:
Is that "Hit the brakes" when backing up or going forward?

Self adjusters only work when going in reverse.
Click to expand...

Not sure about the TR8 - but I always thought the self adjusters only worked with the hand-brake. The ratchet wheel type anyway. And it could take a lot of on-offs to get there so I always wind out the adjustment wheel (the ratchety thigie on the back of the master cylinder) till they start to bind. Not sure the set-up on the TR8 so I could be off-base here.

Rob.
 
Sorry Rob, I left out the using of the hand/foot emergency brake going in reverse. My bad........
 
Actually the manual says just pump the brakes a few times. If there is still a problem or concern oh well he is the Quote
 
I stand corrected!




Stupid British manual.........I still think it's wrong
 
Paul, I to am leary. Nothing is that easy!
 
Try both ways and see what works. It can't hurt to try both if the manual method doesn't work.

Although if you follow the logic in the manual, after about 20 hard braking applications on normal traffic on Rt95 in rush hour, you should be sitting there, with your rear wheels completely locked up tight.

That is why it was always done in reverse, with the e-brake, or hard braking to set the adjuster. That is not a normal driving habit, unless you're Steve McQueen in Bullitt.
 
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