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Rear brake help needed

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61frogeye

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I have a leaking rear wheel cylinder (61 Bugeye) and started working on replacing it today. The phillips head screw that holds the drum on would not unscrew completely, is extremely hard to turn (shoes set loose or tight). After working it in and out for over an hour I got it to move a fair amount but never all the way out and eventually the head stripped out.

Before I drill the screw out I thought I would ask a couple of questions: was there something I should have done differently? I am going to do the other side too and want to avoid the problem if possible. It is so hard to turn I don't think an easy-out will work, I think I am going to have to drill it out. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Hey 61 Frogeye,
Try applying a little heat to the screw after you soak it with some anti-sieze type spray. Obviously clean off the anti-sieze as believe that stuff is petroleum based but heat will usually help with a stuck screw or nut. Have also heard you can use dry ice but never tried that myself.
Good luck,
Mike
 
This screw you speak of, was the head of it flush with the drum or did it seem to be at the bottom of a hole in the drum? If it was the later, that is the screw that lods in the axle shaft to the hub. Sometimes you can see the screw that holds the axle through the hole in the brake drum and think it has something to do with removing the drum. It does not. The drum has to be removed before that screw can be taken out, although you can get it to turn a few turns with the drum still on.

If it was, in fact, the screw that is flush with the drum, then the best way to remove it is with an impact driver. They are inexpensive and you can get them at any Sears or a hardware store. Some folks will spray the screw from the head side with a penetrating oil, but it is quite difficult for the oil to penetrate to the area where it is needed. One has to screw the screw our as far as you can, spray the lube around the head and into the crevase, then screw the screw back in in hopes that it will carry some of the lube to the threads and then repeat the process.
 
It is like a screw that is at the bottom of a hole and I can get it to turn a bit but then it stops completely. There is no other screw seemingly holding the drum to the hub. The drum will spin but does not pull off so I suppose I will have to tap it off?
 
OK, thanks! I found the flush screw after peeling off an old sticker that obscured it. After removing it and a few mallet taps later the drum is off...
 
Probably just a very rusted 9/16. Use whatever wrench will work but after you wirebrush it it will probably be 9/16.
BillM
 
I just went and checked my stock (Morris Minor stuff) and all of the brake banjo bolts were 11/16" (17mm), I don't see any 9/16 ones.
BillM
 
Glad I could help. I first had that problem when I was 14 years old. That was about 42 years ago. Amazing how long a frustration can stick with you.
 
I used to do all my own maintenance and drove all kinds of little Brit and other euro cars, then other things became more important. This recently purchased Bugeye of mine is my return to simpler, prettier cars and doing my own work. I have not torn down drum brakes for about 30 years, that was 30 years ago.
 
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