Rear axle rebound buffer

[neils]

I have a BJ8 with a Jules frame, and am installing the rear axle and suspension. I need help with the location of the axle rebound buffer - this is the thin rubber buffer mounted on a metal plate with two bolt holes (moss part 675-510). I did not take enough photos but I seem to remember it being attached on top of the frame rail directly under the axle, as I think when I removed it the frame was rotted through underneath. Is this correct? Also what color was the metal backing plate painted? Finally as I have a new frame I will need to drill into frame and tap for the bolt threads. The bolts shown in the Moss catalog look like 7/16 bolts which should go into a threaded nut or ?, not tapped into the frame.

 

[andybj8]

yes your right, straight under the axle on top of the frame, bracket is black with rubber on top, bolts are 1/4 x 5/8 long (hzs0405), rebound buffer from what I remember is roughly in the middle of the flat part of frame.
The actual position needs the radius arms installing to axle, I can measure tomorrow. Yes you will need to tap holes.
I tried to add a pic but its over 100kb

 

[Randy Forbes]

Instead of drilling/tapping the frame, which I doubt is of heavy enough gauge steel to provide much over a single thread's worth of grip, I'd recommend using a Nutsert.

Nutserts are installed similar to a pop-rivet, but the end result is it yields a captive nut. About half of my Healey is held together with them, as well as numerous BMW projects too.

See: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=655

McMaster Carr sells a decent tool for the installation, and it's well worth the price. Once you try them, you'll find lots of uses, even around the house!

Edit: McMaster tool https://www.mcmaster.com/#95105a400/=f68gl

 

[GregW]

Hi Neil,
It kinda blows me away that the frame doesn't have those holes already prepped. IIRC the Jule frame is a beefy 8 ga. Since there aren't really any side loads on the buffer, I'd just tap the frame so the buffer will be flush with the top of the rail. FWIW.

 

[neils]

Thanks for your help - I will go with the Nutserts as suggested by Randy - I was not aware of these - they may solve a couple of other problem areas where I was concerned about tapping into relatively thin metal suach as for the anti-roll bar.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Randy,
How well do the nutserts seal out water?
Dale

 

[Randy Forbes]

Thanks for your help - I will go with the Nutserts as suggested by Randy - I was not aware of these - they may solve a couple of other problem areas where I was concerned about tapping into relatively thin metal suach as for the anti-roll bar.

I suggest that you waste an insert or 2, just to get the hang of the installation. There's a few precautions, like accurately drilled (and sized) holes, holding the installation tool perpendicular to the base-work and the amount of pull-tension required. Those things will be easy to figure out in a couple of test-tries.

Watertight? I don't know, I suppose you could use a little Loctite Flange Sealant (not silicone) during the installation of the insert, and then of the fastener.

 

[Jerry]

I used the nut inserts for the role bar. They hold 5/16 bolts and are extreamly hard to squeeze down so I would expect they seal the water quite well. The type I bought are zinc plated steel so they should take a good beating. I also have some that are made from Aluminum. Those do not take much torque before you strip them. I would only use them for #8 or #10 that don't require much force.
I put on my buffers into a Jule frame by tapping the frame directly. Those do not get much side force so should stay in place.

I also used the nut inserts to install the exhaust hangers. 1/4 inch for most of those.

Jerry
BJ8
should be drivable as soon as I get some seats in the car