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Rear axle bearings

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19Sprite65

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The rear aaxle assembly is sitting on the bench waiting for me, but the metal is too cold to touch (7 degrees out this morning). Do I need special tools to remove/replace bearings and seals? Any experienced bits of wisdom?
 
Puller for removing rear hubs and big wrench for hub nuts. Do they really need the work? Bearings probably not, seals likely.
KA.
 
remember the nuts are left and right threaded respectively - don't ask me how I know
 
I used a pry bar on oppsite sides of the hub to get it off. I have a big cresent wrench for the nuts as I don't have end wrenches that large. Advance, AZ or others will have hub puller loaner tools if needed.
 
You need a socket for the axle nut, I seen way too many of these chiseled on over the years, and the nut carries a torque of like 120 ft pounds, this is big time important as that nut is the only thing that prevent the hub/axle and wheels from coming loose.

Update, I needed to be at the shop to be sure, that socket needed for the rear hub retianing nut is 1 7/8", as mentioned above they are L/H thread on the left side, and R/H thread on the right side. I was able to find a socket in 3/4 drive and use 3/4 to 1/2 adpater, I also ground the end of the socket flat, most have a radius on them at the end, so it could flushly get on the thin hub nuts, I don't use the retaining washer (it's a accidnet waiting to happen) and make sure the tread are cleaned and oil free then use a dab of red locktite on the threads of the hub nut and torque to 120 ft. pounds. This something that is big concern to any Spridget racer, as loosing a hub nut can make for a very bad day.
 
19Sprite65 said:
Good stuff, thank you. I'll start looking for a socket that size at the flea marts.
Click to expand...

Go to harbor freight and buy a 3/4 socket set - usually about $50. more uses than you can possibly imagine other than wrenching - drift being one. That and a 3/4 - 1/2 adapter and I threw mine on my air wrench and it was great. Plus you WILL impress your friends with a 3/4 socket set.
 
After removing the hub nut with the 1-7/8" 3/4 drive socket and the electric impact, I use a Craftsman 2 jaw gear puller to remove the rear hubs. Drop an old distributor drive into the end of the hub. The taper top of the drive fits the rear axle housing like a champ and the center recess locates the gear puller drive bolt. Use a large screw driver or pry bar to keep the gear puller from spinning as you turn the bolt and the job is done in a couple of minutes.

Keep an eye out for the 1-5/16" socket as well. It fits the front crank pulley nut and the cam drive gear retaining nut.

Oh, and look for the 1-5/16" open end wrench for the transmission input and main shaft bearing retaining nuts as well. Another "Big" tool that comes in handy.

HTH
Mike
 
I have the 1-5/16, got it for some reason- steering wheel? I use it for turning over the original and spare engines on occasion.
 
casting my mind back about 30 years: I was definitely low budget, and I built some sort of axle/wheel bearing puller out of of half inche plywood and used the wheel studs to pull things. To be honest, this description doesn't even make sense to me, but I do remember: no money; using plywood. So there's alternatives. ANd I've since bought a couple of cheapo 3/4 inch drive socket sets made somewhere in China, but they work well enough for my once a year needs; they were less costly than the Craftsman equivalent; and you can wow your friends and neighbours with the ratchet.

Doug
 
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