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TR2/3/3A Re-start after total restoration

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R

Redoakboo

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I have re-built the H4's for the 2nd time, with the new o-rings in place of the cork gaskets.My battery is 3 years old, but has never been used and has been on the small triple charger most of the time. After using my other charger, over night, it still wouldn't turn it over enough to start it? Will take it to Advance Auto tomorrow to see if it is still good.

The starter is the original starter with about 30k miles on it. It took a 30 yr nap, but appears to be O.K.. Brushes and Armature looked alright.

Any recommendations on a new Hi-torque starter? I remember putting one on my TR-3, what a difference it made.

Dick Vinal
 
Dick obviously no clue as to your battery status.....
But I can tell you I installed a gear reduction starter from Ted at TS Imports.
i could not be happier.... and I can tell you Ted knows his TR stuff!
Good luck.
Gil. NoCal
 
Gil, I have bought parts from Ted over the years. He made a set of headers for my TR-3 and I, also bought a Hi-torque starter for the 3.. I have lost his website info, could you please send it to me? My email at home is [redoakboo@yahoo.com]

Thanks, Dick Vinal
 
You know the drill dirty or lose connections. The starters are a pain to get out, but an original starter in my opinion is cooler and those new type starters might go in easier. There are 2 types of high torque starters for these cars depending on the fly wheel. Yours sounds like the early type.

Most times with these cars a hard starting problem is the choke. If that could be an issue, spray some starter fluid in the car to see it pops off. But, yes the motor needs to spin. My car starts within 2 seconds. I hit the button and vooom.
 
I don't have the transmission cover on so, removing the starter will be easy. Will sort out the battery issue first. I have tried spraying the starter fluid in the carbs but, must get the engine to turn over faster before it will ever start. It did start on my first try but, I had a serious oil leak i had to tend to. I forgot to reinstall the oil passage bolt on the back end of the head, quickly had about a quart of oil on the floor!

Dick.
 
The spark plugs come out easily on these cars, so in the early stages of getting the mechanical/engine running correct, put a new set of plugs in every time you start it. At least look at plugs a lot early on, perhaps just one fouled out, but that one will feel like many things before you get to know the engine. At one with the engine! Yeh, I think battery also.

steve
 
Do you have a load tester? Not particularly expensive, and it's the gold standard for evaluating batteries.
load_test.jpg
I agree, you need to get it cranking properly first. Then, if it cranks well but still won't start, worry about carbs and ignition.
 
I took the battery into Advance Auto, where I bought it three years ago. They did a load test and the battery is bad. I came home with a new one and will try to start it again tomorrow.

Dick
 
I had a couple years when I put every vehicle I owned on trickle chargers (6 cars, 2 boats and an RV). All those batteries went bad by the end of the year. Don't know if it was the cheap Walmart chargers or not, but I no longer leave any vehicles on chargers any more. I now make it a point to start every vehicle and charge the batteries once every 4-6 weeks. Now my batteries are all lasting 5+ years. It's a win-win as every vehicle needs to be exercised or systems start acting up...switches corrode and seals dry out.
 
I used to get Interstate battery's Just because they were green as is my TR. DUMB. at two years old they were dead every time went to start up dead. Battery tender OK but did not last any longer. I went to a DRY CELL battery and tender now almost 7 years with a new geared starter starts every time. When you check a battery volt mean little it's amps that what the load test does. Madflyer
 
Good news! It started right up with the new battery. Ran it for about 10 min, set the idle and mixture, oil pressure around 45-50 psi.. I was getting ready to drive it for the first time when I noticed oil leaking out in the area of the filter. I jacked it up and drained the oil, had lost about 1/2 qt. If I can ever get that da*^@ filter off, I will hunt for possible leaks. I can't seem to get the filter wrench around the filter;Tomorrow's project.

Dick
 
Is it a new spin on filter or an original filter? If it is the original type filter there is a bolt that has to be taken out to get the filter off.

David
 
It is a spin off filter.I'm afraid I am going to have to take the head off to change the filter. I have punched so many holes in the filter, I think that is the only way I am going to remove it. I converted it from the old style, maybe i should have left the old one on, as it is a lot easier to just remove that bolt.
I'm not sure that's where the oil is leaking from, but it sure is suspect?

Dick
 
I'm sure you've been warned about having the old hard O-ring still in place when installing the new fresh O-ring...or pinching the new O-ring when installing the adapter....I've done both albeit 35 years apart.
And don't think that you have to have the spin on filter hanging straight down...hang it a convenient angle and don't over tighten it next time.
 
Thanks,

I will definitely check for pinching the "O" ring in the adapter. I have ordered all new "O" rings and gaskets for when i re-assemble.

Dick
 
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