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re-arching rear leaf springs

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

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I am thinking about having the rear leaf springs re-arched since the left side rides 1 inch lower than the right. Does any one have the specs on the hight the center should be in relation to the ends (with ends laying on the ground)? BJ8 so raising one inch will help clear the exhaust. Should both springs be done even if the right side is the proper hight (27 inches to top of wheel arch)?
 
I've never re-arched springs, but it would make sense to me to have them both done to balance them out.
 
It's a complete beeeee-och to get your springs off - probably the single worst job to do on a Healey. If you go through that trouble, you really should get new springs. Re-arched springs don't always hold over time.
 
Yes, I had my rear springs arched in 2007. I have a '60 BN7 and unfortunately ordered the original type springs for that car, not BJ8 springs. They began sagging within six months. I took my springs to a local company called "St.Louis Spring". Great company, been in business a long time. They made a fortune re-arching springs for British Cars they said with a smile. Knew what I had and told me even though they were brand new they can't guarantee the springs or brackets etc. won't break. They offered to make me a set of springs that would hold there shape, In retrospect I wish I would of had them do it. I told them to go ahead anyway and arch the springs to give me 2 inches extra height. When I picked them up they looked almost U shaped, I didn't think they would even go back on. They did go on and actually fit pretty good. I didn't pick up the 2 inches but, I did raise the height about an inch. That lasted about a year. If I were you I'd just order new BJ8 springs and put them on.
 
I concure, I had to resort to the sawsall the remove my rear leaf springs when one broke. Go new, there's a lot of option out available.
 
HI TH you have been pointed in the correct direction. However, rear springs are a bin item and they vary from the manufactured lot to lot. I have gotten some from top sources that almost had to be thrown out. Similarly, do not think just because you get new springs your car is going to set level. Balancing the springs can be a worrisome effort. Put them in and let us know how the car sets. Do not fret over its initial high butt look they will settle about 1/2" over time.
OH stock up on PB blaster and keep a sawzall handy the front spring bolt may be frozen in place. Hope this helps---Keoke :laugh:
 
A few years ago I put new springs (from a usual supplier) on my phase 1 BJ8. The car actually sat lower than with the old springs. The new ones had no "set" in them. Ended up returning the new ones and rearching the old. The rearching has diminsihed over the years and it may be time to do it again. I have heard that you should have the annealed when they are rearched so that they will maintain their shape. I did not have that done. Perhaps I should have.
If you go with new springs, let us know the result.
 
Back in December (2008) we had a long thread (#530608) when I replaced my sagging 100-6 springs. I had only 3" of ground clearance.

5-10 years ago, I bought a set of springs and had never installed them.

The bad news is that these springs were designed and built for a BJx and I have a 100-6. The BJx has a 1" drop in the frame at the rear axle that the 100-6 does not have, so these new springs would NOT be a plug & play.

The good news is that these springs were built by Martin Jansen at Jule. My 100-6 springs where 6 leaves of 3/16 thick spring stock and these Jule springs were 5 leaves of 1/4" spring stock.

When I talked to Martin, he told me that for a BJx, the height of the middle of the spring stack over the end eyes (standing eyes down on a table) was 3 5/8".

These new springs were a little too stiff for my "Cruisin'" taste so I ended up using the top two 1/4" leaves from Martin's springs and the bottom 3 leaves from the original 100-6 springs.

When I installed the new spring, I had to add a 1" spacer block between the axle perch and the spring stack to compensate for the frame drop.

My car is apart for the installation of a R&P steering unit, a 24" radiator, and air conditioning. I haven't had a chance to put any miles on it, but the ride height looks good (I picked up 1" of ground clearance) and in only a ride around the block, the ride felt good.

The ride may require a little "tweaking" when I get back on the road in a couple of weeks.

From my experience and in from hearing from others, I would NOT recommend re-arching. It won't last.

I WOULD recommend calling Martin at Jule and hearing what he as to say. He may still have some springs to sell. Knowing Martin, I think that his products will be better then the others.

Tim
 
Hi Tom I hope that 1" spacer and the modifications made are enough. What usually happens if the uninitiated install BJ8 springs in a 100-6 type straight frame the springs cause the Diff to Break the frame.---Keoke
 
Keoke said:
I hope that 1" spacer and the modifications made are enough.
Click to expand...

Enough what ?


Keoke said:
What usually happens if the uninitiated install BJ8 springs in a 100-6 type straight frame the springs cause the Diff to Break the frame.
Click to expand...

How does that happen ?

T <span style="font-weight: bold">I</span> M
 
Cottontop said:
Keoke said:
I hope that 1" spacer and the modifications made are enough.
Click to expand...

:savewave:
Enough what ?--- Clearance so that the diff does not hit the frame when the springs rebound.


Keoke said:
What usually happens if the uninitiated install BJ8 springs in a 100-6 type straight frame the springs cause the Diff to Break the frame.
Click to expand...

How does that happen ?

T <span style="font-weight: bold">I</span> M
Click to expand...
 
Keoke,

Thanks for the warning and I'll keep a sharp eye & ear out for the "bang".

I set the distance between the axle housing and the bump stop in accordance with Martin's instructions (.75" - 1"), so I should be OK.

I think I'll RTV a piece of "witness" material (straight copper wire) to the top of the bump stop so I can tell if the axle housing even touches the stop.

Tim
 
Now that you have all scarred the c--- out of me I wanted to see if it would come appart easily or with a sawsall. The nuts can be removed easily so it must be the metal bushing on the pin. I have not tried this yet. If that is the problem will a "C" clamp be able to push it out? I don't want to do anything not reversable at this time as the "driving season" is short and just beginning. I can wait till fall.
 
:savewave: Hi TH :lol:

tahoe healey said:
Now that you have all scarred the c--- out of me I wanted to see if it would come appart easily or with a sawsall. The nuts can be removed easily probably because the bolt is frozen to the metal bushing. I have not tried this yet.

Give it a go see if you can work the bolt free by putting a wrench on the head and turning it. If it does not want to turn soak it up good with PB Blaster and try again.
If that is the problem will a "C" clamp be able to push it out? :nonod:

I don't want to do anything not reversible at this time as the "driving season" is short and just beginning. I can wait till fall.---- May take that long to get em out. :laugh:
Click to expand...

----------------------------Keoke
 
Start spraying PB - Blaster on it now, maybe by July you can work it loose if not.......................... Sawsall. I was able to "surgically" cut the infected bolts and replace with new leafs, bolts, etc. with no noticable damage.

Dougie
 
Lets not forget the power of "dry ice". I have used it to free up seriously rusted wheels to the splines.
Patrick
 
I'm thinkin' I'm gonna replace that front leafspring bolt with a nice grade 8 stainless bolt when I get a chance.
 
GregW said:
I'm thinkin' I'm gonna replace that front leafspring bolt with a nice grade 8 stainless bolt when I get a chance.
Click to expand...
Coat them with Kopr-Shield. Mine still slide out twenty (20) years after they were put in.
 
"Coppa Slip" is better.---Keoke-
grin.gif
 
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