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Ratco Throttle Linkage

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DougF

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Just curious what the long term report is on this linkage for the Tri Carb set up.
Any negatives? All positives?
Also, what have you done for air filtration? Individual cleaners on each carb, or Goodparts ram air with filter system? Any feedback on the ram air?
 
Doug,

I think that the Ratco linkage is just great. No binding, no issues, just floor it and go. I should have done it when I had the twin ZS carbs.

I have triple K&N filters, no ram air. I like the sound of the carbs at wide open throttle.
 
I know what you mean. I like the idea of the ram, since I'm working at making the head breathe better, along with many other mods. The price is pretty hard to swallow.
 
Hello Doug,

if by ram air, you are talking about using car momentum to 'force' air into the engine, as far as I know it is very difficult to get this idea to work on a road car.

Alec
 
Not if you drive like Dale does /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
OK, OK, I know that Dale gets the brunt of the ribbing here, but you all know that Ram Air never works in reverse, so I think that you guys should back off Dale a bit.
 
piman said:
Hello Doug,

if by ram air, you are talking about using car momentum to 'force' air into the engine, as far as I know it is very difficult to get this idea to work on a road car.

Alec
Click to expand...

That's why I took mine off. I went back to 3" K&N filters.
Besides, the cold air induction was ugly.
 
I will admit that the K&N filters look better... but gosh even with the jet-hot coated headers, the area under the carbs gets so hot. The ram air looks fair, however in my case I'm looking for performance:

normal_2007-08-26%20-%20TR6%20Engine%20Pics%20005.jpg
 
You, sir, are a perfectionist and I respect that!

I, on the other hand, simply waste gas listening to my carbs suck air and my headers roaring away when the pedal is on the metal.

Although, I must admit, that shiny stainless box looks awful intimidating under there....
 
While "cold air box" is more appropriate than "ram-air" in this case. I too like the box for its function. I don't mind the aesthetics either. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

2.jpg
 
That's where he keeps his Grey Poupon warm.

It gets cold at night in the Rockie Mountain State!
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif


Donn,

Yes, that is the coil for the Jacobs Electronics Pro Street ignition system that I have had for about 10 years now. The control box is above where the washer fluid reservoir should be.
 
Bill, being that you have the "trip ." manifold, how well does it match up with the headers you are running, which I think is the same as mine.Is it an easier or harder install than the stock unit?
 
The stock unit is gonna be easier to install. I had the trips on with the stock cast iron manifold for a while and really kind of wish I had them back. Meaning, since I had the 73 manifold, which was a dual, I don't know that headers gave me any more power, and they throw a lot of heat. Mine are the Falcon split header (2 pieces) and I had the Jet Hot coated (it is flaking off after a year). They are a pia to install because they had to be faced by a machine shop. Every header will probably need to be faced. I had to then modify the little cast clips that hold the header and intake because of a very slight thickness difference. And grind a few of the header flanges. And used some special all-metal locking nuts with tapered heads to get three of the nuts on under the header. Other than that, a piece of cake.
 
My JetHot coated Pace Setter headers went on with minimal mods to the intake. Six of the lower flanges needed to be ground back about 1/4" on an angle, but other than that, no problems.

(See old gasket picture below showing required grinding)

I had mine done inside and out and they actually run between 5-10 degrees cooler than a split cast iron manifold and cool down much faster.
 
Does anyone run PRI's new manifold gasket? Suppose to be real trick.
 
Anyone tried to install the Ratco linkage in a TR4A? It seems like it ought to work.
 
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