Should work; but I have no experience with the later ammeter. You might want to test that the shunt value is still close to correct. What I did was to connect things far enough that I could note the ammeter reading with the engine off and headlights on before installing the shunt, then again with it installed. The goal is for the latter reading to be 1/2 the first reading.
When a friend tested his early TR6 ammeter, he found that it needed almost twice as much resistance in the shunt as my early TR3 ammeter.