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rambling about my tranny filler plug, again.

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achtungeveryone

Jedi Hopeful
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I posted this summer about my situation with my tranny filler plug but haven't been able to find a suitable tool to remove it. So I took my jug of Redline MT90 and headed to my nearby oil pit to have guys who should have the correct tools service my tranny so I could just be done with it. Well, the ol boy did okay on the diff but said he was afraid he was going to round off my filler plug on the tranny... he was using an open end 11or 12mm and then he started talking about visegrips...so I thought I better stop this movie before the train wreck and try once again to locate a suitable tool. The plug size seems to be 7/16. Has anybody used the TRF pipe plug tool, with success? It looks to be two different sizes so hopefully one end would match mine. The tranny and the diff are the same size on my 6 and I think original. when I first posted it was suggested that I use a 6 or 8 point socket but I just have a bunch of 12 points, I will try sears, but was hoping someone had used the TRF wrench.
 
There are probably a few options, but I really like the tool Joe Alexander makes: Alexander Racing Enterprises

Pretty simple tool, one end handles the square brake adjuster, the other does the tranny and oil pan drain plug.

I think Roadster Factory carries them too, maybe Moss as well.

Randy

edit: oops, didn't read your post to the end, and I see that you are aware of the tool at TRF. It's stout, it does work - just used it a couple of weeks ago on the same plug and it could more than handle the extra leverage needed to break the plug loose.
 
I have the Roadster Factory tool and it works well. <span style="font-weight: bold">Much</span> easier that all of the workarounds I tried before.
 
It's true I know nothing about TR6 auto mechanics but
I bought TRF tool anyway. I used a small flat file to
remove the filler plug DPO's rounded edges, a short pipe extension
and the filler plug came right out.

Buy heck? What do Rookies know, anyway? It worked for me.

the fisherman
 
DNK said:
8 point socket.
Heard of 12 and 6 . 8?
Click to expand...
Sure how a 4 sided nut won't fit into a 12 point socket.

Personally, I would take out the old plug and get either a bronze plug or a steel plug with a magnet.

See this it should do the job quite nicely.
https://www.mcmaster.com/
1072A23
Low-Pressure Threaded Magnetic Pipe Plug 1/2"-14 NPTF, Recessed Hex-Socket, 39/64" Length
In stock at $2.48 Each
 
70herald said:
DNK said:
8 point socket.
Heard of 12 and 6 . 8?
Click to expand...
Sure how a 4 sided nut won't fit into a 12 point socket...
Click to expand...

Actually a 12-point socket would grab a square nut or plug, but the amount of material it would grip would make rounding the plug almost inevitable on anything as crudely made as the gearbox plug.

Unless the plug is wicked tight and 8-pt should do it -- when refitting I do not think it is really necessary to tighten that guy much. I just snug it up well and have never had one fall out (aren't those tapered threads?).
 
I've used a 1/2", 12-point box wrench for many years on my drain plugs. Granted, they're all on Heralds and Spitfires and don't screw into an aluminum case, which seems to be one reason so many plugs on big TR gearboxes are so difficult to remove (dissimilar metal reaction, etc., etc.).
 
Old School: Good pipe wrench should work because the harder push or pull, the tighter it grips plug.
 
Thanks for pointing out (to the insatiably curious who will try this at home) that it is the half inch 12-pt that fits a 7/16" square.

Now I have to ask myself -- is this a happy coincidence or did it have to be this way?
 
Thanks to this post, I have just ordered a drain plug tool from the Roadster Factory! I have also spent an hour looking through their catalogue and now I want to re-trim my car, fit new side screens, get a new exhaust, carburettor heat shield, various other itmes and I want Kas Kastner's three books!
 
bgbassplyr said:
Old School: Good pipe wrench should work because the harder push or pull, the tighter it grips plug.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

After all, it is a pipe plug! If you round it off or chew it up more then you like, just go to your local hardware store and buy another one for 28 cents.
 
Sear's sells 8-point sockets. Sometimes the square holed specialty wrench that Joe A makes and TRF sells (I have two) won't do and you need some extra force. That's when I use the socket. They are standard pipe (tapered) thread and I converted mine to brass plugs with teflon tape to seal more easily.
 
angelfj said:
bgbassplyr said:
Old School: Good pipe wrench should work because the harder push or pull, the tighter it grips plug.
Click to expand...

A pipe wrench??? Kind of a brutal weapon don't you think?
Click to expand...

No. Like I said earlier, if the plug gets too chewed up when using a pipe wrench, just go to the local hardware store and buy another one. Sometimes you have to use the best tool for the job, and sometimes, those pipe plugs need some real help to get them out.

When I was doing my TR3 engine, I had two head studs that I just couldn't get out of the block. I called up Ken at British Frame & Engine for advice, since I was relacing the studs with ARP's I bought from him. He said after you run some PB Blaster or Kroil down in there just use a <span style="font-weight: bold">pipe wrench</span> on those suckers and stop trying to finesse them out. Five minutes later, they were out of the block. There are times when the heavy artillery is needed. :yesnod:
 
Pipe wrench, a selection of hammers, and pliers will sometimes fix the problem faster than you can dig up the 'special' tool.

You wouldn't believe what can be done with a belt sander.
 
Are British pipe threads, and National standard pipe the same.
Seems like I read they were close, but something was different?
Emmett
 
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