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Rained, now instrument panel not working!

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Tom_Odom

Jedi Hopeful
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Morning, I'm the new guy with the 74 MGB.
Well I don't really know if the rain had anything to do with it or not but 30 years ago I was a hard core Triumph rider so nothing surprises me about these electrics.

Problem: Started car this morning and everything was working, well not everything, but what has been and what is needed. Tach, Fuel gage, and Temp. Now those listed are not working. Checked what I could so far. Fuse panel on passengers fender, Power is at bottom (term.#7&8)fuse as should be and next fuse (term.#5&6) with switch turned on is also working correctly. Top two fuses (term.#3&4 -- term#1&2) has no power at any time. Can not locate source for power to these fuses. Have "Haynes Repair Manuel" as reference. Wiring diagram is a little hard to follow.
All the fuses so far have checked good.
Any clues.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
 
Usually when those 3 go out, the turn signals & wipers go also...& its usually a ground at the fuse block...you might try removing it & cleaning everything thoroughly.
 
First step would be to clean the fuse contacts, then the connectors going into the fuse box.
 
Advanceautowire.com has a PDF file that contians all the different wiring schemes for all the MGBs through the years. It's much easier to follow than the diagrams in the Haynes. I highly recommend downloading it and printing out the corresponding diagram for your car, and maybe even pinning it up in the garage or where ever it's most convenient for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Beyond that, I'd also follow the suggestions that everyone else has said so far. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Wow that is a great site for diagrams. I saved a copy & will print one out. I have large format digital printer at work so I can print & laminate one for the garage.
 
OK, The sun has been shining for some time now, I wiggled a few wires and now tach., fuel, and temp. gages are working. I do still have a problem with the fuse block as the top half has no power. Something to work on latter.
Thanks for all the input from everyone. The wiring diagrams are great. I saved them and then printed and they did fine with letter size paper.
Thanks again,
Tom

Update.
Have found the problem with the top fuses. Was no problem with them at all. They are fuses for headlights and parking lights. They are made hot when the headlight switch is turned on.
Come On Now. One of you guys should have nailed me on this one. I'll bet that I will know where the fuses for the headlights are from now on.

Tom
 
erm... as far as I know, there are not stock fuses for our headlights on our Bs. Well, at least there isn't any for them on my '76. I plan to change that using the wiring relay harness available from the afore mentioned site though.
 
[ QUOTE ]
erm... as far as I know, there are not stock fuses for our headlights on our Bs.

[/ QUOTE ]

Correct. Pull the fuses and try your headlights; they'll work fine. Anything fed directly via a brown or a white wire is hot unfused (brown) or hot w/key unfused (white).
 
Oh no, fuses for headlights is a bad bad idea. If anything a fast trip circit breaker.

You just have never been sailing down a dark road at midnight and had your head lights go, talk about scarie. They are unfused for a reason.
 
OK, Made another mistake. Turns out the top two fuses are for the front parking lights, taillights and license plate lamp, fed by headlight switch.

Not raining so all is fine for now.

Well not all is fine. Still have a small vacuum leak, need to find out why over-drive is not working, fix rear turn signals (Bulb maybe), replace air dam under front bumper, replace interior, replace hood or repair, do minor body repair, have keys made, sand blast wire wheels (adjust, true, and paint), replace dash, replace windshield wipers, and paint car. Well there are probably a few more items I left out.

All that looks like a lot but was underneath the car yesterday having a muffler installed and looks really good underneath. No rust, lower control arms look new, new tie rod ends with new inter boots, and new universal joints.

Have records where new clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate installed, and fly wheel resurfaced. Rear Shocks rebuilt, S-U Carbs rebuilt and tuned. New Top, Valves adjusted, new wiper motor, New king pins, new fuel pump, and a few other parts plus three "Haynes" books.

OK, so I did get away from the rain subject some.
Thanks,
Tom
 
Outstanding, now be sure to keep us advised of your progress.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Outstanding, now be sure to keep us advised of your progress.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks Jack,
I will.
You could just run up here to Brewton and give a hand, advice or something. Better yet. Do you have some extra time on your hands and room in your garage? I could pick it up when you're done.
Tom
 
hmmm, and that is only a bit more than an hour away. In fact I bought the leather chair for my computer there, seems there was a flood and lots of stuff going cheep, revarnished the bottem and all well.
 
Jack,
How far along have you got on your project? Just got back from looking at it on your site. Looks like much more than I would want to tackle.
Good luck,
Tom
 
Tom, the body is in upper Alabama to be blasted and painted next month. Engine, tranny and rear end are just about ready to go in when it gets back. All the components have been stripped and repainted, repaired. About 2/3 of the nuts and bolts have been cad plated, expect to be finished next week.

Then put it all back together with maybe 3K worth of new parts as I go. Going to be a good Christmas I hope.

As the wife says, it keeps me out of the Bars.
 
[ QUOTE ]
OK, Made another mistake. Turns out the top two fuses are for the front parking lights, taillights and license plate lamp, fed by headlight switch.

Well not all is fine. Still have a small vacuum leak, need to find out why over-drive is not working, fix rear turn signals (Bulb maybe)

[/ QUOTE ]

Might want to doublecheck the ground in the boot. There should be a ring terminal connected to the boot catch. It grounds a bunch of stuff back there, although the taillights themselves ground through the body. Better yet, run seperate dedicated grounds from each rear light to the boot catch.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
OK, Made another mistake. Turns out the top two fuses are for the front parking lights, taillights and license plate lamp, fed by headlight switch.

Well not all is fine. Still have a small vacuum leak, need to find out why over-drive is not working, fix rear turn signals (Bulb maybe)

[/ QUOTE ]

Might want to doublecheck the ground in the boot. There should be a ring terminal connected to the boot catch. It grounds a bunch of stuff back there, although the taillights themselves ground through the body. Better yet, run seperate dedicated grounds from each rear light to the boot catch.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks Scott,
Have not really tried anything with the turn signals yet. Got plenty to do and hand or arm signals seem to get me by. Brake lights and running lights are fine. Maybe check on a few things this week end. Have got to replace mower deck drive belt this afternoon. No! NO! I'm getting confused. That's not on the MGB but the Craftsman.
Have a good Day,
Tom
 
Back away from the mower! Therein lies the Dark Side! You'll be sucked into domestic chores and never have the time for the MG!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Back away from the mower! Therein lies the Dark Side! You'll be sucked into domestic chores and never have the time for the MG!!

[/ QUOTE ]

Exactly. Grass? I don't see any grass...
 
Speaking of grass... I have a lawnmower to rebuild /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
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