TR2/3/3A Radiator removal TR3A - any tricks?

[TR4nut]

I've had a surprisingly hard time getting the radiator off my project 3A - with the shield removed, I can barely get a socket on the boltd due to frame interference. Is this typical?

I have better access to the square nut viewed from the top, but it looks like it might be welded to the radiator bracket - is that right?

Sorry no pics, hopefully that makes sense.

Thanks
Randy

 

[TR3driver]

Yup, correct on both counts.

Sorry I can't recall what I used to get those bolts out. Seems like it was a 3/8-1/4 adapter or something like that, but it's just been too long ago. I replaced them with longer bolts with springs under the heads (so any frame flex could not be transmitted to the radiator shell), which proved to be much easier to get in and out.

 

[Royal_58]

I had the same issue, no "u" joint or socket combo would fit in that tight space. I bought a set of offset box end wrenches and that worked great, they reach right in there. I'll se if I can find a link and post it.

https://www.autozone.com/R,1779965/store,/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm

Good Luck

 

[alfa33047]

To remove your radiator, remove your front nose, bumper and grill. Sorry to give you the bad news. I use a long extension with a short socket for the bottom bolts. Be careful when you reinstall your radiator, do not put alot of tension on the top support rods as they will pull at your radiator tank from vibration and cause a leak, good luck, Bill. Mesa, Arizona

 

[bluemiata90]

As far as getting the bolts off, I remember using rachet/wrench and had to move the bolt one click at a time or just cut them off from the top, because, For the good news, once you do get those bolt out, I just reinstalled my radiator yesterday and decided that those bolts had to go, so I used a slightly smaller stainless steel bolts with stainless washers and nuts and pushed the bolts upward through the hole and attached the nut onto the top. This way, if I ever have to remove the radiator again, it will be much easier to remove and the stainless nuts and bolts should not rust as easily as steel. Good luck.

 

[tdskip]

Hey - new member! Welcome Bill!

 

[Russ Austin]

Welcome Bill; I grew up in Mesa, went to Mesa Jr. High and Mesa HS. Something you might do with the bolts from the radiator is take a dremal and cut across the bolt end to make a place for a standard screwdriver. Then place them back as the came, you will then be able to screw them out from the top.

 

[NickMorgan]

Yes, a slow process to remove them one flat at a time using a wrench. Once you have managed to get them out, clean them up well and cut a slot on the head of the bolt so that you can use a screw driver to get them most of the way in and then tighten them up with a wrench. It is also worth putting some copper grease on the threads to make the next time easier too!!

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Randy,

Maybe I was just lucky....I did this a couple of nights ago on my project and was able to get a thin walled socket on the bottom bolt with an extension fitted to my air ratchet.

M. Pied Lourd

 

[TR4nut]

Thanks all-

After all the tools I've squirreled away over the years I think I can find a socket or offset wrench that will work. If not- a great excuse for another tool purchase!

Randy

 

[6TTR3A]

I fought with mine but then used Bob Schaller's suggestion for the remount. I Ground the jam nut down to 1/8", added a couple of rubber body mounting pads; one to surround the jam nut, one for cushioning. (Randall's idea of the springs didn't occur to me) I like Scott W's idea of ss stock.
...................................................
FRank

 

[Don Elliott]

Before you put it back together again, take a hack saw and cut a cross slot across the end of the bolts. Get them started from below and then use a screwdriver from above to get them almost tight. Then secure them tightly from below the hard way.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Good grief! Just had the radiator out on my TR4... took about 3 minutes. I'm happy to say Triumph realized that they had made this much more difficult than it needed to be and went the obvious route (captive nut under the frame section, bolt goes in from above) on the '4.