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Radiator Question

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JPSmit

JPSmit

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I put in my big order for parts with VB last night (only to find the sale has been extended to Sunday). Oh well. Anyway, it rejected my order for a Rad. I called this morning and they told me they had lost their supplier. Moss doesn't sell them either. Any thoughts for where I can get a (preferably new) '76 crossflow Rad?

Also, today it was 80 degrees here in Orlando. I saw two MGB's both rubber bumper, both pretty, both with their tops up, what's up with that?

JP
 
I've had my top down all week. To me it's worth the effort right now. As far as the radiator goes, I've heard that the ones VB were selling were kind of cheap feeling anyway. I solved my cooling problems by buying a used crossflow from a 79 that was being parted out. I took it to the radiator shop and had it boiled out and cleaned. They told me that if I still didn't have enough cooling they could fit it with a high efficiency cooler and still use my tanks. I've had no over heating problems since then. My original radiator was a 1275 crossflow and wasn't up to the challenge of my 1500. You might be able to take your existing radiator to a good shop and have it cleaned or have a new core put in it and get really good results.
JC
 
I'm beginning to think that's what I'll have to do
 
I never even cleaned mine, but once I had the engine rebuilt (and hot tanked) and added an oil cooler, the temperature almost never wavers, even on 100 degree days of idling at autocrosses (yes, we did have one of them this year).
 
Matt,
How did you add the oil cooler? I've been looking into possibly doing this. It seems as though there may be several different opportunities with the 1500. The oil filter adapter puts the threads similar to those found on many American vehicles. I've looked at the offerings that tailor specifically to 1500 Midgets and Spitfires but their adaptors are around $100 and the low profile coolers they offer are another $200ish if I remember right. I have an infared temp detector and now that I have the coolant temp stabilized around 165 the pan itself is always around 180-190 indicating that a cooler may not be needed. Still it is added insurance that I have kept in the back of my mind.
JC
 
I had my '77 rad recored locally. The shop did a nice job and was able to convert the original 2 row core to a 3 row core, which should really help with the cooling capacity. Total cost was $240.00.
 
I originally used the aeroquip spitfire kit for the 1500, but it was woefully inappropriate in terms of pipe lengths (one was too long, the other grossly too short!). At any rate, as I recall, I removed the adapter that bolts to the engine block, and installed a sandwich adapter directly to that, with an extension in the middle. The trouble was that it was 5/8"-16? thread, which nobody makes a filter for in the US (that would be suitable, at least). The only ones I could find that fit were from moss, some or other imported brand. So I had my machine shop fabricate an adapter for the sandwich plate that was block thread on one side, and 3/4-16 thread on the other. I now use K&N Oil Filter PN: HP-2005, which is the one specified for the most common car on the planet: the Ford Escort. This filter size also fits my E30 BMW, which has a metric thread which happens to be identical. (Size I cannot recall). I ended up getting custom made lines (rubber hydraulic hose) using standard BSP-1 fittings (VERY expensive). I'd go with a standard Mocal or similar 10-13 row oil cooler with whatever threads they use on american cars, and american lines. I'd look at summit racing or similar for a suitable adapter, as it's a fairly standard item (think BMW, Escort, etc). The filter diameter and thread sizes just happen to be identical, so the only thing you'd likely need is a new threaded adapter to go from block to filter. If you use whatever threads are common for american hardware, you'll be able to find fittings and hose at any speed shop to suit your needs, instead of having to order direct from aeroquip, earls, etc (although earls fittings are probably what they'll use, just not BSP type fittings). Instead, they're likely to use AN fittings, which are far more common. Aeroquip and Earl's are merely two competing companies that produce fittings and hose for race cars, the actual types of thread are BSP (what Moss will sell you) and AN, as I'm sure you're familiar with from other plumbing type applications.

When I get around to re-doing it, this is the direction I'll take, but at the moment, I have the british threaded setup working, so I'm not going to mess with what works! As an aside, TSImportedAutomotive may have what you need, as Ted Schumacher seems knowledgeable enough, and has said that he has or can get just about any filter adapter that you'd ever want (for the engine block). I'd also go with a thermostatically controlled system, so it doesn't take too long to warm up in the cold. I've definitely noticed that it takes a long time to get the pressure down off 60-80 in the winter. In the summer, the pressure will drop to 40ish once it's been running (and idling) a long time at an autocross.
 
Thanks for the info bud. I was thinking about screwing a 3/4-16 sandwich adapter directly onto the oil filter adapter that is on the block. I have the ability to make my own hydraulic hoses so I will definitely go with AN fittings. Probably go ahead and purchase the 13 row Mocal cooler but wanted to keep the costs down as much as possible. Do you see any issues with using the two adapters? It seems to me that there is room to do this even though it might look a bit silly...lol
JC
 
I don't know why, but at the time I was reinstalling my engine, it seemed like the cast adapter was not going to fit with everything else. I may have a unique situation, but the stock Escort/BMW/Whatever filter is about 2X longer than the original Midget item, but it still easily fits without the stock adapter, with the nearest clearance item the steering column. However, as the engine shifts in its mounts (from torque reaction) it'll move away from the column, not toward it, so it's never a problem.

It may be that it'll fit with the stock adapter just fine. If I were you, I'd try it first, but know that you can always take it off later! At the time, I couldn't source a threaded adapter with 5/8-XX to 3/4-16 thread, but if you find one, I'd be excited to know where. The stock item is actually 5/8-XX on both ends, so it's remarkably idiot-proof. I have an engineering drawing (crude, but fuctional) if you want it.
 
Also, if you didn't mind telling us where you source the adapter, I'd be interested. Perhaps we could produce a comprehensive 1500 oil cooler installation guide.
 
I love you guys, always thinking of the rest of us.

Jack
 
I'm looking at a couple of different possibilities right now. I may be way off in left field but should be a couple of weeks and I'll know for sure if this will work or not.
 
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