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Radiator Preference

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Soren

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Both aluminum and the original brass/steel radiators are on sale at Moss. Ignoring weight, is one version preferable over the other?…both in installation (‘66 BJ8), and in cooling.

John Rose
 
John, this is probably a very unpopular response so please take it with healthy skepticism and do your own research.

Many aluminum radiators have fragile fins that can be easily damaged by rain and road debris impacts. And, unlike brass radiators, the fins will break if you try to straighten them. This means they can cool very well when new, but less well with time as they age. A few Healey shops will not install aluminum radiators and will only supply larger core brass radiators.

Regards, Bill
 
Brass is also brittle and oxidizes faster than aluminum. There’s a reason brass radiators are painted. Go for the aluminum!
 
When I restored my TF, it had a bad radiator due to a previous accident, and the fan wiped out the back side of the core. As the tanks were in excellent shape, I had it re-cored with an extra row and it has performed perfectly ever since. PJ

New rad, frontend, shocks, air cleaners2a.jpg
 
If you want the best big Healey radiator available and you're not pinching pennies, I suggest the ProAlloy unit.
www.proalloystore.com

Austin Healey 3000 Radiator

Pro Alloy Water radiators are on average 50% lighter and 25% more efficient than the standard copper brass equivalent and are corrosion free and will out last even the best quality conventional radiator. This 60mm thick radiator core will keep your pride and joy cool, even on the hottest day...
www.proalloystore.com www.proalloystore.com
 
If you have a stock radiator, keep it. Get it cleaned/rebuilt/whatever. Add another core series.
My understanding is that the originals can be maintained and rebuilt, but that the aluminium ones can't.
We've improved the shroud and changed the fan(BJ7). We live in Calgary, Alberta (and use water wetter) so different constraints than living on the equator. Opinions are like noses: everyone has at least one. Make your choice, and don't revisit and be happy.
 
dougie said:
If you want the best big Healey radiator available and you're not pinching pennies, I suggest the ProAlloy unit.
www.proalloystore.com

Austin Healey 3000 Radiator

Pro Alloy Water radiators are on average 50% lighter and 25% more efficient than the standard copper brass equivalent and are corrosion free and will out last even the best quality conventional radiator. This 60mm thick radiator core will keep your pride and joy cool, even on the hottest day...
www.proalloystore.com www.proalloystore.com
Click to expand...


Dougie, How's the fitment? Word has it the Wizards require some tweaking (and use metric nuts).
 
twas_brillig said:
If you have a stock radiator, keep it. Get it cleaned/rebuilt/whatever. Add another core series.
My understanding is that the originals can be maintained and rebuilt, but that the aluminium ones can't.
We've improved the shroud and changed the fan(BJ7). We live in Calgary, Alberta (and use water wetter) so different constraints than living on the equator. Opinions are like noses: everyone has at least one. Make your choice, and don't revisit and be happy.
Click to expand...
Original radiators can be repaired or recored. The problem is finding someone to do it.
 
It depends on what you're looking for - on my son's quite original BN6 I had a new core installed which was 30% larger, put in by a local radiator shop. He lives in Reno, NV... never overheats. On my last BJ7, I put in a Cape Sport all aluminum radiator. I live in Colorado... doesn't overheat but then I have side cooling vents too so hard to say what all is contributing to lack of engine cooling issues. Pick your poison... as you would expect neither presented installation issues. Of course, rebuild is cheaper if that's the primary driver... but the aluminum Cape Sport sure looks nice.;)

... I probably should add... both have full fan shrouds and Texas Kooler fans.
 
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