Radiator Cowl

[Musicman]

Hello to all once again.

How many of you out there have a radiator cowl under the hood. I'm debating whether or not to buy and install one. Is it really necessary?

All comments are welcome.

Thanks!

 

[swift6]

Are you referring to the shroud that goes in front of the radiator or the aftermarket piece that goes between the radiator and the engine?

The shroud is necessary. The aftermarket piece improves airflow and cleans up the engine bay a bit.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Musicman]

Yes, the shroud that goes in front of the radiator. Does it really help get air into the radiator? Could you tell me how it gets hooked up?

Thanks.

 

[Guest]

David, the shroud that goes in front of the radiator funnels the air into the radiator. The TR6 needs all the help it can get and the shroud is extremely effective in doing just that. You can buy the OE style from all the vendors, a cardboard-looking apparatus that is very close to the original. It does a good job of funneling the air but tends to break down over the years. Richard Good sells a metal shroud (aluminum or stainless, your choice) that not only works well but looks good and never wears out. Too, the TR6 engine compartment justs looks naked without the shroud, if that counts.

Bill

 

[Musicman]

Bill,

Thanks for the info. I was looking under the hood and there doesn't seem to be a lot of room for that to fit in. I was checking one out in the Victoria British catalog and there doesn't seem to be any hardware for its installation included. How does it hook up?

 

[Guest]

David, the OE cardboard model uses the four self-threading hex head screws that should already be in the sheet metal above the grill. Two of those screws are surely there because they hold the tubular braces coming off the inner fenders. The radiator side or rear part of the shroud just jambs against the radiator. They will send you some screws to piece the 3-part unit together to make one large U-shaped shroud. The metal ones from goodparts.com (I have the aluminum, should have gotten the stainless, easier to keep shiney) assembles the same way. For a few bucks more, consider the metal units. Or, if you are handy working with sheetmetal, make your own. Just don't use galvanized iron. I think this is just 16 gauge metal. Cheaper to buy Richard's unit.

I added the screened opening for more fresh air to my carbs.

Bill

 

[Musicman]

Bill,

Thanks for the info and for the photo. I checked out Good Parts. I think I'm going to go for the original cardboard one for now.

Thanks again!

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

Ditto what everyone else said. The radiator shroud is very critical to effective cooling on TRs. Anyone having overheating problems should make the shroud the first thing on their list of things to check. If it's missing, these cars are much more likely to overheat.

Original ones were press-board (cardboard) and disintegrated over the years. All the vendors sell repros, if you are looking for originality.

I'm using a black plastic one on my TR4 (probably came from Victoria British), which is a little different from your car of course. I found it sagged a bit in the middle, so rivited some 1/8"x1/2" aluminum stiffening ribs to help it keep it's shape. Before I installed the plastic shroud, I had a home-made aluminum one, so that's another alternative.

The plastic one is flexible, making installation a little easier than the aluminum one I used to use. Also, be a bit careful about any part of the shroud rubbing against the radiator, that it won't damage it and eventually work a hole in the softer material. If using a metal one, there are plastic trim strips that can be added on the edges to help protect fingers and radiator.

The plastic one I have in the car now has a gap at the rear, between it and the radiator, about 1-1/2". I plan eventually to install a higher capacity aluminum radiator, so might just leave the gap as it is and have the new radiatior positioned a little further forward. I think the shape will still direct plenty of air to the current radiator anyway. On the other hand, it would be easy to add some rubber flaps to fill the gap at the rear edge of the shroud, or extend it with some black plastic sheeting (maybe cut up some mud flaps).

I agree the metal ones look nice and all. One concern would be adding a lot of weight with stainless steel, if it's made of heavy enough material not to be easily bent, dented, creased or split.

 

[Musicman]

Alan,

Thanks for the input. Are you saying that it would be a good idea for the radiator side of the shroud not to be right up against the radiator but rather just get as close to it as possible without touching? It sounds to me like even with that spacing there will still be practically 100% air hitting the radiator.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi David,

Yes, I think that with inevitable vibration a shroud that's tight against the radiator will rub. The rad is made of relatively soft brass and can be damaged, over time, especially if the shroud is made of metal. If you want a really tight fit, try to work out some sort of rubber fitting on the rear edge of the shroud, to protect the radiator. I also feel a little gap is okay here, although I'd prefer less than the 1-1/2 now on my car. Maybe 1/4-1/2" gap would be about ideal.

TR250-6 have somewhat different shrouding than my TR4, so do research specific to your car.

I must say, Bill's installation looks great, particularly with the custom aluminum radiator!

Cheers!

 

[Musicman]

Yes, I agree. Some sort of rubber fitting around the radiator side of the shroud would be ideal. I like the 1/4-1/2" gap idea, too.

 

[RobT]

I also have the Vic Brit plastic shroud on my TR250. As well as funneling air to the radiator, I think it also helps cut down on "short circuit" of hot air at idle. The install is pretty easy, although the 3 bolt holes along the front did not line up quite right.

 

[vrod]

I made my own out of aluminum. The TR250 shroud is not as wide as the TR6. Noticed right away, a difference in running much cooler. I used fuzzy door seal on the edges to protect the radiator and fill in the gaps.