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TR2/3/3A Rad Replacement Advice

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Frank_D

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A few years ago, I had my rad recored and abandoned the crank hole to get that extra cooling capability. I was a bit nervous about losing the ability to crank start as it had saved me on a road trip to Vermont earlier. Have not had any issues with starting so am good with no crank hole. I have developed a minor leak at the neck filler joint with the top reservoir. Apparently this is somewhat common. The rad shop I had used is gone so I am thinking of replacing the entire rad. Sourcing an original style rad from the main suppliers is doable but pricey. I have looked at aluminum but am concerned about quality as the prices on eBay are very low relatively. They all appear to be produced across the Pacific. I am looking for advice on going to aluminum; quality, performance and any other concerns.

Frank D…….
 
Why not just seal the perimeter of the neck with some JB Weld and maybe stick a support triangle there while you're at it. That worked for me and haven't had a problem since (going on 3 years).
 
My advise it to use modern adhesives to save what you have.
If you can get the joint clean enough, it is possible to use metal bonding adhesive here.
Good to 300+ deg F it will benefit from a few strands of fiber glass to strengthen the matrix.
This can be done in car with good results. The alloy rads are cheap but good in my experience.
I suggest rubber mounting top and bottom for longevity.
Mad dog
 
Thank you Mad dog. Your advice is always practical and a goos solution. Must come from years of experience. Will update as it goes.
Frank D…..
 
Soldering is the ticket for brass radiators. With care, it can be done to the neck with the radiator in place.
 
Having done my share, I will say that soldering is an art not everyone can master.
There is very little strength at the neck joint and most repairs fail for all the same reasons
the original failed. Poor design. Long term, the alloy rads are a bargain and I have seen no
real issues with their use. It is harder and harder to find ANY radiator shop to do any decent work.
So the alloys are likely the future....
Mad dog
 
mctriumph said:
Having done my share, I will say that soldering is an art not everyone can master.
There is very little strength at the neck joint and most repairs fail for all the same reasons
the original failed. Poor design. Long term, the alloy rads are a bargain and I have seen no
real issues with their use. It is harder and harder to find ANY radiator shop to do any decent work.
So the alloys are likely the future....
Mad dog
Click to expand...
Thank you for the follow up Mad dog. The apron has to come off so when I do that I will see if I can repair the neck, preferably with soldering. Failing that I will obtain an alloy and install it. I have removed the Apron several times and have it down to about 2 hours. Have some driving events to do before I get to that but should be OK.
Frank D……
 
Perfect! If soldered properly, it will last the life of the radiator. Most failures are from bad soldering to begin with or some ham fist leaning on the radiator neck.
 
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