Hi Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
OP
Darrell_Walker
Jedi Knight
Offline
OK, if anyone is still following along, there is my final solution. I made a new bracket to hold the cable at the pedal end. The original one could have been adapted, but it would have meant re-bending it, so I decided to start from scratch. I had to make another extension bracket for the arm so that I could center the new bracket in the "dish" were the steering column would go on a RHD car.
I also have a picture on how I addressed the carb bracket. I could not mount it on the carb studs, because the stub spacing on the webers does not match the bracket. Also, because of the anti-vibration mounts, I didn't think it was appropriate anyway. So I fashioned a little bracket from aluminum angle stock, and an extension to mount the cable end.
With all of this, I now have just over 3 inches of clearance between the cable an the headers.
For a TR4/4A, I would have to say that while the kit can be made to work, there is enough fabrication that just buying the Lokar cable and making your own brackets is probably just as good. I don't know if a stock manifold would be better on clearance, but it is clear that the arm on a 4/4A isn't in the same position as a TR6. But I am happy with the end result, and glad to get rid of the bell crank.
I also have a picture on how I addressed the carb bracket. I could not mount it on the carb studs, because the stub spacing on the webers does not match the bracket. Also, because of the anti-vibration mounts, I didn't think it was appropriate anyway. So I fashioned a little bracket from aluminum angle stock, and an extension to mount the cable end.
With all of this, I now have just over 3 inches of clearance between the cable an the headers.
For a TR4/4A, I would have to say that while the kit can be made to work, there is enough fabrication that just buying the Lokar cable and making your own brackets is probably just as good. I don't know if a stock manifold would be better on clearance, but it is clear that the arm on a 4/4A isn't in the same position as a TR6. But I am happy with the end result, and glad to get rid of the bell crank.
