• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Rack and pinion TR3

Share this page

fad64b

fad64b

Senior Member
Offline
To rack and pinion, or not to rack and pinion a TR3 has been discussed many times on this board. It is not my intent to reopen this subject, what I wanted to do is make other TR3 owners aware that a rack and pinion conversion can be done with out spending $1500.00 on a kit. I just completed converting my TR3 for under $350.00, and would like to share what I have learned. To start here is a list of parts I used.
Upper half of a TR3 steering shaft (my car had a one piece steering column)
TR7 steering rack
TR7 lower steering shaft with both universal joints
Spitfire tie rods
Spitfire Tie rod ends
Electric fan
Steel to fabricate bolt in brackets
Also if the fan extension is cut with a hack saw across the face where the bolts attach the pulley, then grade 8 bolt and washer can be used to reattach to the crank making room for the rack and electric fan.

Provided you take your time and can weld you can save money without sacrificing quality
 
Can you post drawings for the brackets? Did you check the bump steer? I'm ready to start cutting parts out and welding.
 
How did you handle the horn and directional wiring??
 
So how did you check that the Ackerman angle is correct ?
 
Art, Have not worked out the wiring yet. I thought I could work it out using the original control head. The problem is now it will follow the steering wheel so it will not cancel. I am working on pictures and drawings, the brackets start with square tubing (2 3/8 outside X 3 1/2 tall)that fits in the frame where the steering box bracket mounts and idler bracket on the other side. My brackets look similar to the ones in the kits sold on ebay and sold on this site.

https://www.trparts.com/newitems/tr3guide.html

I tried to get the rack as low as I could with out interfering with lower wishbone. I read somewhere about using TR6 lever arms and reversing right to left and so on. This would raise the position of the tie rod end, but you would have to then use TR6 tie rod ends. You would understand what I mean if you could compare a TR3 steering Lever and a TR6 lever. I wished I was as good as Tinster at taking pictures and documenting my projects.
 
fad64b said:
...Have not worked out the wiring yet. I thought I could work it out using the original control head...
Click to expand...

Bob Schaller's "More BS..." addressed one solution for this. Here is a pic of the gadget he used to keep the horn button. Trafficators are another matter.


R&P-slip-ring.JPG
 
British Parts Northwest has a kit that they claim allows you to retain the original steering wheel controls. By looking at the picture of the parts, it looks like that top piece with the serrations on the top and the nubbies on the side is the magic piece. Perhaps this part (and any other associated parts) are available seperately.
 
Art,
Would be great if a source could be found I think your on to something. That beats reinventing the wheel, what I was think is a three conductor coiled cable that I could fasten to the wires in the upper shaft loosely wrap on the upper shaft so when truing in one direction it would have room to tighten and turning in the other it would unwrap.
 
Back
Top